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I have no idea yet. I don't want to spend $15/qt on oil. So I will be looking for some good stuff that is around HALF that price. Lots of choices in that range. ( Too many, actually! )
 

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Asking about brand/type of oil is a never ending debate. EVERYBODY will have their own ideas, opinions, and personal recommendations. Any oil classified 'MA', with out the 'energy conserving' designation with a 10w30 weight will work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any oil classified 'MA', with out the 'energy conserving' designation with a 10w30 weight will work just fine.
Do all readily available 10W-30 motorcycle oils satisfy these requirements or do I need to look for something specific? I have only had my first bike 5 days now and will need to order the oil online and have it shipped to me.
 

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Your real world results, sure. Technically incorrect.

Modern motorcycles usually have the same oil lubricating the engine and the wet clutch. For this purpose most of the time the regular friction modified engine oils are not good enough. (from oilspecifications.org) Read all you want there.

Plenty of personal opinions on the topic of oil. Every forum that has anything mechanical in it with have all sorts of oil debates. Follow your manual.
 

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Modern motorcycles usually have the same oil lubricating the engine and the wet clutch. For this purpose most of the time the regular friction modified engine oils are not good enough.
I agree.
The wet-clutch is the difference.
Which is why I will choose motorcycle-specific oil for my CBR500R.
Some good choices from BelRay and Maxima.
If you stay away from full-synthetics, you won't have to pay too much.
Pretty much all the high-end full-synthetic motorcycle oils are around $15 a quart.
 

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Which is why you do not want an oil that says energy conserving on it, That is what will toast the clutch. If the oil I use is bad for clutches I wouldnt be on the same in my MX bike for 3 years and my 250 clutch would have been gone 5000 miles ago. Use whatever you want but there are thousands of people using shell rotella in bikes and ATV's. As a matter of fact I own a powersports repair shop and I use it in 90% of customers machines.
 

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I'm gonna run the Honda synthetic stuff, HP4S. Not a big fan of the pricetag though .. almost $11 a quart at my dealership. 3 quarts of it cost me more than the 6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum that I put in my car, haha.
 

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As a matter of fact I own a powersports repair shop and I use it in 90% of customers machines.
What benefits do you see from using non-MA rated Rotella? Do you have any oil analysis reports to post up? Rotella may work fine, however if the Engineers at Honda (or any manufacturer) say MA designation, there's a reason. They aren't saying use only 'HONDAlube", just informing the owner of the different additive packages - classifications - of oil needed. I just don't understand why a shop owner would stray from OE requirements.

another good source of information.
Understand Motorcycle Oil @ MotorCycleAnchor.COM

JASO stands for the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (although translated from Japanese it might be more accurate to say Japanese Vehicle Manufacturer's Organization). JASO rates oils for compatibility with their products (cars and motorcycles), and all the major Japanese motorcycle manufacturers (Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha) specified a JASO standard for compatibility with their four-stroke motorcycles' oil needs starting in 1998, called the JASO-MA standard.
 

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Look, if the oil lubricates very well while not causing the clutch to slip or the catalytic converter to fry (with a roller-type cam system, we don't need to worry about the super low phosphorus and zinc levels of the modern oils), then it's going to work just fine.
Besides, the lack of an indication that an oil meets a certain standard is not necessarily an indication that it doesn't meet that standard; it can also just mean that it wasn't subjected to one or more tests that an oil must pass in order to meet that standard.

However, if you want the Honda stuff, then here's a good source for those with no dealer close by:

Pro Honda GN4 Oil 10W30 - Chaparral Motorsports
 

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What benefits do you see from using non-MA rated Rotella? Do you have any oil analysis reports to post up? Rotella may work fine, however if the Engineers at Honda (or any manufacturer) say MA designation, there's a reason. They aren't saying use only 'HONDAlube", just informing the owner of the different additive packages - classifications - of oil needed. I just don't understand why a shop owner would stray from OE requirements.

another good source of information.
Understand Motorcycle Oil @ MotorCycleAnchor.COM

JASO stands for the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (although translated from Japanese it might be more accurate to say Japanese Vehicle Manufacturer's Organization). JASO rates oils for compatibility with their products (cars and motorcycles), and all the major Japanese motorcycle manufacturers (Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha) specified a JASO standard for compatibility with their four-stroke motorcycles' oil needs starting in 1998, called the JASO-MA standard.
Benefit other than price? None. I've heard a number or customers complain about the price of some oil changes. Not only to me but to other shops. So to keep the price down I use it. Like I said, any oil thread always turns into a pissing match. Also all race ATV's and MX bikes require oil changes every race weekend. That adds up really quick using high end oil. Like I said, if it were an issue I would be broke and out of business rebuilding engines and clutches. I do alot of suspension work also and I have seen people use cheap suspension fluid too with negative results so I use the best stuff money can buy " siklolene" but with engine oil I have had nothing but good results so I use it. To each their own.
 

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Alot of guys on the 2-stroke motocross side like to use Automatic Tranny Fluid in their clutch/gearboxes. It's cheap.

Rotella has always been very good oil. I know guys who use it in their V-8 race engines.

As has been said already, there are so many good choices. Pick what you like and run it!
Ride safe.
 

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AMSOIL.....and Amsoil filters, I've put it in all my dirtbikes and motorcycles over the years and it has never let me down, and I rode those bikes HARD, **** you can go 15k miles on the oil as long as you change the filter at 8k.

Its not cheap, but you can make it last.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/motorcycle/

Rotella is good too...seems like everyone I know at the track uses Rotella or Amsoil mostly.
 

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i am using original Honda G4 full synthetic oil from Japan now and i am pretty satisfied with it.
Other then that, Motul rules!
 

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I prefer Motul too (for what it's worth!)..10w-40
 
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