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Did you adjust it according to the service manual. When my bike was new it needed adjustment but only once.
To the best of my limited ability, yes. Well, initially I adjusted it according to the user manual, but I just pulled out the service manual to compare. Seems to be the same instructions. Though when I went back out today I decided to adjust it again... This time I ended up concluding that adjustment at the lever wasn't sufficient, and made an adjustment by the engine instead.

I'm still not completely satisfied with it, but I think I have it set up comfortably for now. I wonder if I've gotten used to a maladjusted clutch lever all these years and now a properly adjusted one won't feel right.

I think the real problem is that my hands are small, and the stock levers are large. When I adjusted the cable to be what looked ideal it was nearly as tight as could be adjusted by the engine, but I found that I needed to release the lever too far (nearly to the reach of my fingers) to begin engaging the clutch. Perhaps if I bought some shorty levers it would work that way, but I wasn't comfortable leaving it like that with the stock levers. So I adjusted it back again.

Part of the problem is that I'm being pedantic and trying to get the lever to always be pulled all the way out again. I've found over the last several years that if I release the lever smoothly enough it will sort of float a few millimeters from resting position, and I have to push it out with my fingers to get it all the way out. I was hoping to adjust is so that no matter how gently I release the clutch it always pulls the lever all the way out. It seems I'm running into issues achieving that while also having a comfortable lever.

Maybe later today I'll try to take a video of its setup so you guys can yell at me if I did it wrong. :rolleyes:
 

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To the best of my limited ability, yes. Well, initially I adjusted it according to the user manual, but I just pulled out the service manual to compare. Seems to be the same instructions. Though when I went back out today I decided to adjust it again... This time I ended up concluding that adjustment at the lever wasn't sufficient, and made an adjustment by the engine instead.

I'm still not completely satisfied with it, but I think I have it set up comfortably for now. I wonder if I've gotten used to a maladjusted clutch lever all these years and now a properly adjusted one won't feel right.

I think the real problem is that my hands are small, and the stock levers are large. When I adjusted the cable to be what looked ideal it was nearly as tight as could be adjusted by the engine, but I found that I needed to release the lever too far (nearly to the reach of my fingers) to begin engaging the clutch. Perhaps if I bought some shorty levers it would work that way, but I wasn't comfortable leaving it like that with the stock levers. So I adjusted it back again.

Part of the problem is that I'm being pedantic and trying to get the lever to always be pulled all the way out again. I've found over the last several years that if I release the lever smoothly enough it will sort of float a few millimeters from resting position, and I have to push it out with my fingers to get it all the way out. I was hoping to adjust is so that no matter how gently I release the clutch it always pulls the lever all the way out. It seems I'm running into issues achieving that while also having a comfortable lever.

Maybe later today I'll try to take a video of its setup so you guys can yell at me if I did it wrong. :rolleyes:
If it's adjusted correctly you will have a small gap where the lever goes back at rest. The clutch lever will not be pulled right back in and snug when you have some clearance. The only time you adjust the clutch at the gearbox end is if you have no more adjustment at the lever.
 

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Nothing yet, but I will hopefully clean the chain after Amazon arrive, then brush off all the surface rust.

I finally uncovered the bike on Thursday, it could do with a clean but the only problem areas were surface rust on the chain and the Givi top box frame, and a mostly flat battery. The alarm beeped on and off but the bike would not start.

So I brought the battery inside to put on the charger, then reinstalled it yesterday and checked the bike. All good. I also brushed down the Givi frame and that looks a better, but I also ordered some Hammerite paint to give it some protection. I will probably do that tomorrow. The chain was too gunky from the protective lube I added before covering, so could not do anything about the rust before removing that.

Once the frame is painted and dried I can then install the Givi pannier frames.

Either today or tomorrow I will also install some SW-Motech crash bar. After the problem last year with R&G crash bungs* I have been unwilling to reinstall the replacement, so the bars seemed a better option all around. I am hoping they will also function as a mount point for LED lights, but I ting they are too tight to the body. I have fork mounts to use otherwise.

I am thinking of mounting the Nemo2 chain oiler on top of the tail assembly, so have ordered some L-brackets and bolts, but they will not arrive until next week so that job will have to wait. I have seen on another forum that position recommended, and could not see anywhere else to use. Unfortunately the bars are a bit too busy to fit there, which would have been better as then you can then engage it whilst riding.

Finally I want to re-do my electrics as it is a mess under the seat. That will include replacing the USB ports (which have somehow rusted inside the waterproof cover) and removing the mirror mounted LED lights that are half broken and just leaving some cabling under the headlamp ready for buying a replacement. Need to buy some new cabling for all of that, as part of the mess it is all cut too short to route nicely.

I have also ordered a RAM ball mount for the handlebar clamp, so can hopefully relocate my G.P.S. mount from right mirror. With risers it cannot sit underneath the bike's own display, but as I use it in portrait mode anyway, it should position just to the left of it.

Also the top box, I need to swap the lock barrel with the pannier one so they can all use the same key. And I have bought an LED strip light I want install somewhere as where I park there is no external lighting. I already have an electric connection in the box that I have tapped into to provide a 12V socket. Which is great for charging USB devices while riding!

That will be early next week, but before most of that, once the chain and frame are sorted, I need to tax the bike and ride it! Sadly tax is paid by calendar month so I would have to pay for a full month even for just a week. I considered waiting, but it has now been £5.58 per month.



* When I got home I noticed the left bung was missing, with nothing hold the engine to the arm. Worse was that it appeared to have snapped off, leaving the end of the bolt screwed into the engine, and it was firmly embedded that I had to get it drilled out by an engineering company. And if that was not enough, the frame no longer properly aligned with the engine, even after loosening and resitting it. I had to use a strap wrench to line the frame arm up with the engine to have it drilled, then put the original bolt back in. I was already sceptical about the bolt for the crash bung without the added stress from the arm, but crash bars should be strong enough to keep avoid any such problems.
 

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Nothing. hmph.

I started on my jobs as planned on Saturday, only after cleaning the chain to discover one of the links is properly frozen. Slowly roll the wheel by hand and it stops when the links reaches the front sprocket, roll it faster and the chain jerks. The rest of the chain is okay, with plenty of slack still to give, so I have ordered a master link will cut off the frozen one and replace it.

A quick tip that may be obvious, but the Honda chain is just a D.I.D. 520VO. So if you want an O.E.M. replacement than look for that instead and save the extra money Honda charge to put their sticker on the bag.

I was gong to attach the crash bars yesterday afternoon, but was so tired I fell asleep. Which mean I was going to do it first thing this morning, then pain the Givi frame this evening. But when I got up the forecast said 90% chance of rain in an hour, so I put it off. No rain, so I looked again and it was 80% chance an hour later. No rain. So I would try it all in the evening. There was a 50% chance of rain at 5pm, but the forecast had been wrong all day and the sky was getting brighter. So I went down to the bike, and no sooner had I laid everything on the ground it started raining.

Tomorrow Storm Francis is visiting, with 70 mph winds and rain, so no working on the bike until Wednesday now. Maybe by then the new chain link wiil have arrived.

I put the crash bars into the top box rather than carry them back indoors, so as I was getting wet I just double checked something and now know how I will add lighting to it. On Saturday I realized the best place for the LED strip light was around the seal in the box lid. It is the only place that is flat and is wide enough. The only problem was my power source is in the base. So today I took a couple of cables, I think 0.5 mm² (20 AWG), and wrapped them around the strap in the box corner (that I think are to stop the lid being opened too far) and it did not interfere with it closing.
 

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It seems the only rain in London was overnight, leaving a windy but a sunny afternoon. So after watching Jimmy Anderson take his 600th test wicket (if you do not know cricket, it is a huge and unique achievement) I went outside and did this:

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My right bar end had a badly scratched corner which was also showing rust, but I had an unused spare so I swapped that over. I am sure the old one can be ground down and painted then go in the box to be kept as a spare.

As I did not lube the chain after cleaning it, initially thinking it dead, the new surface rust looks worse after one night of rain than it did before! Hopefully the new link will arrive tomorrow.
 

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Today I tried lubing the kickstand with chain oil. 👿 I've noticed that it has been getting stuck midway way more often than it used to. I doubt that was the ideal oil, but hopefully it won't do any harm either. It seemed to help a bit, but not as much as I had hoped.
 

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The master link has not arrived yet, so no riding for me this weekend.

Yesterday the RAM ball for the handlbar fork top arrived, unfortunately because of my 1" risers the bolts supplied did not reach far other than to hang loose. So back to eBay to order a longer bolt.

I had been putting off the Hammerite painting, as I felt once I started I would have to leave the bike untouched for 24 hours to dry, but checking the can it said it should take four hours. It also said to do a test patch, so I did that.

With nothing in the post this morning, I decided to start the painting and did the outside of the right frame before realizing how difficult it would be to reach the back. And as the point of painting is to protect from rust it needed doing. I want to paint in situ just to save time, but if I am not going anywhere until at least next week, there was no longer a case to be made for not removing the frames,

And it was awful back there, unsurprising as it is where the spray from the wheel goes — and I rode a lot on wet and muddy roads last year — and is difficult to properly clean. So now I have recovered the bike as a lot of rain is due today. I will lay some newspaper on an old sheet in the bathtub and paint the frames, so I can do back and front. Meanwhile I have dropped all the bolts and nuts in a dish and covered them in white vinegar to clean the them.

The other thing I did yesterday was detach the top box, so have replaced the lock barrel on that so it can use the same key as the panniers. I replaced the tape that I use to guide the 12V socket round the inside of the box, and I measure and cut the LED strip that will go around the rim of the lid. Unfortunately I do not have enough cable to wire it in, so had to stop at that point.

I keep ordering so many little items I lose track of what I am waiting for, I think now it is the M8 bolts for the RAM ball, some M6 bolts for the Nemo2 oiler, and the D.I.D. masterlink for the chin. Today I will order some cable in various gauges and colours as my next little project is to tidy up my own wiring.

For all the jobs that need doing, it is just for the want of one chain link that is making the bike unrideable.
 

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With the top box frames removed, I went to take advantage of the access to spray and clean under the seats. I was intending to refit the frames and the new pannier ones, only to realize I forgot I did not remove the Givi part that sits under the tail arm, as it was too much hassle. So instead I painted that part, as much as I could access, to provide rust protection. I can then add all the luggage frames tomorrow.

The chain link has still not arrived, the eBay estimate was Wednesday or Thursday, and unfortunately tomorrow is a public holiday. Nothing on Tuesday I will have to complain. My M8 90mm bolts arrived though and I was able to attach the RAM ball on the fork top. It works, but the ridiculously oversized security knob (key type) either obscures the bikes instruments, or gets blocked by the screen arm so the GPS unit does. So I have ordered the smaller fob-type security knob. Not as secure, but it is only really for when paying in petrol stations, otherwise I always remove the unit when parked.

I have yards of cable in various colours, so my final project will just be to tidy up my wiring for USB etc. and finished fitting the LED lights to the top box. And, of course, the chain. The cursed chain.
 

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Firstly, look at this picture of how big my knob is.

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That is the only problem mounting the G.P.S. cradle on the new fork top ball.

Today I fitted the lighting to the top box. It is a shame the LED strip is white.

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Also I measured it out and it would be an exact fit with the two-pin connector for the stop lights in the box lid. Only, when I came to stick it on the final piece ended up being too long, so I had to cut it short which created a gap. But it was probably for the best as it allowed me to tape the junction box without any award contorting which would have risked breaking the strip.

You might just be able to see the switch in the top right.

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It may be less clear in that photo, but it is pointing upwards, that way nothing in the box should accidentally turn it on. A future improvement would be to add some kind of momentary switch so it only turns on when the lid is open. But for now, you have to flip the switch.

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Unfortunately the remote key lock for the box was not working. I could have broken something when I changed the lock barrel, or it spent so long without power I need to use the reset switch inside the mechanism. Which is annoying as it is covered in tape to hide the wiring, so take it apart could be a slightly bigger job than it should be.

Not that it matters too much if I cannot use a remote to unlock, I only bought it because it was on offer and it was after my keys fell out of my pocket so I could not open the box until I got home to use the spare. I thought that would save me the same problem in the future. Only then to realize the fob and key are on the same key ring. But it did also bring a power connection into the box I have been ablw to tap into for the 12V socket you can see in the box and now the lighting.

After working in the box, and before taking those photos, I had to reattach the now painted top box frames. So hopefully they will not rust for a while. But I also added the pannier frames.

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I did not realize they would be so high. I m not so sure a pillion would want to ride with them attached. Yet because they use the left peg as a mount point you cannot blank them off. Not that it matters as I am not insured for passengers anyway. I have no expectation of ever needing to, so can get a little discount by excluding them.
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I am surprised how flimsy they feel when mounted, as there is some give as they are only held onto the top of the frame by two clips and the locking clip. Only half an inch of movement, if that, but I did nto expect any. Maybe it is safer they are not so rigid?

But I am still amazed how well magnets keep a tank bag in place. And I used to have that top box attached to my 125, I could practically keep the bike in it, which at first looked like it would be unstable and snap off but never did. So I will just accept it will be okay.

I was also surprised how wide they are. Supposedly they are supposed to be as wide as the bars, but they are definitely wider. Admittedly I replaced Honda's bendy bars with thicker Renthal ones which are a big narrower, but I do not think by much. I am not the most confident at filtering anyway, which is not such a problem as I do not commute, but they will definitely make me pick my gaps more carefully.

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The perspective does not really show the full width. And for no reason at all, this is the underside.


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So my remaining projects are to sort out my electrical stuff: replace the rusted USB on the bars, remove the mirror mount lights that do not work properly, and buy and install some decent LEDs which should be mountable on the crash bars.

Replace the knob on the RAM mount and install the Nemo2 chain oiler, which should fit by the brake reservoir with the G.P.S. moved.

And replace the frozen chain link so I can finally ride the bloody thing.
 

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I put my Airhawk DS on the seat, and then went for a decent ride. On the way back I decided to fetch our camp pillows to sleep on because about a week ago our puppy chewed my Tempur-Pedic pillow to pieces while my wife slept soundly beside him. By the time I got back I had put about 200 km on the odometer so that was a decent ride. It was pretty comfortable too except for the wind on the highway, and on the way back with the pillows strapped to the tail I found that it was interfering with the airhawk. Both my wrists and buttocks were sore for the final ride home, but I made it safely and now I plan to get very stoned and a little drunk. :)
 

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Firstly, look at this picture of how big my knob is.

View attachment 72489


That is the only problem mounting the G.P.S. cradle on the new fork top ball.

Today I fitted the lighting to the top box. It is a shame the LED strip is white.

View attachment 72490

Also I measured it out and it would be an exact fit with the two-pin connector for the stop lights in the box lid. Only, when I came to stick it on the final piece ended up being too long, so I had to cut it short which created a gap. But it was probably for the best as it allowed me to tape the junction box without any award contorting which would have risked breaking the strip.

You might just be able to see the switch in the top right.

View attachment 72491

It may be less clear in that photo, but it is pointing upwards, that way nothing in the box should accidentally turn it on. A future improvement would be to add some kind of momentary switch so it only turns on when the lid is open. But for now, you have to flip the switch.

View attachment 72492

Unfortunately the remote key lock for the box was not working. I could have broken something when I changed the lock barrel, or it spent so long without power I need to use the reset switch inside the mechanism. Which is annoying as it is covered in tape to hide the wiring, so take it apart could be a slightly bigger job than it should be.

Not that it matters too much if I cannot use a remote to unlock, I only bought it because it was on offer and it was after my keys fell out of my pocket so I could not open the box until I got home to use the spare. I thought that would save me the same problem in the future. Only then to realize the fob and key are on the same key ring. But it did also bring a power connection into the box I have been ablw to tap into for the 12V socket you can see in the box and now the lighting.

After working in the box, and before taking those photos, I had to reattach the now painted top box frames. So hopefully they will not rust for a while. But I also added the pannier frames.

View attachment 72493

View attachment 72494

I did not realize they would be so high. I m not so sure a pillion would want to ride with them attached. Yet because they use the left peg as a mount point you cannot blank them off. Not that it matters as I am not insured for passengers anyway. I have no expectation of ever needing to, so can get a little discount by excluding them.
View attachment 72495

I am surprised how flimsy they feel when mounted, as there is some give as they are only held onto the top of the frame by two clips and the locking clip. Only half an inch of movement, if that, but I did nto expect any. Maybe it is safer they are not so rigid?

But I am still amazed how well magnets keep a tank bag in place. And I used to have that top box attached to my 125, I could practically keep the bike in it, which at first looked like it would be unstable and snap off but never did. So I will just accept it will be okay.

I was also surprised how wide they are. Supposedly they are supposed to be as wide as the bars, but they are definitely wider. Admittedly I replaced Honda's bendy bars with thicker Renthal ones which are a big narrower, but I do not think by much. I am not the most confident at filtering anyway, which is not such a problem as I do not commute, but they will definitely make me pick my gaps more carefully.

View attachment 72496

View attachment 72497

The perspective does not really show the full width. And for no reason at all, this is the underside.


View attachment 72498

So my remaining projects are to sort out my electrical stuff: replace the rusted USB on the bars, remove the mirror mount lights that do not work properly, and buy and install some decent LEDs which should be mountable on the crash bars.

Replace the knob on the RAM mount and install the Nemo2 chain oiler, which should fit by the brake reservoir with the G.P.S. moved.

And replace the frozen chain link so I can finally ride the bloody thing.
What are the blue pieces called and how did you customize them?
72510
 

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The blue parts are stock!

The part code is 51450-MJW-J01 and Honda call it a Front Fork Bolt Assembly. According to the parts catalogue the same part was used on all 2016–18 F and R models in all regions.

The part code for the 2019–20 F and R models is 51450-MKP-J01, but I believe these are also blue.

So the only difference would be the original 2013–15 models, which had a simple grey bolt (Front Fork Bolt, 51454-MM9-671) as the front forks were not adjustable on those.

I think because of the larger size, the X has different forks so it has different parts so I am not sure about colours or compatibility on that.

Companies could sell different coloured ones to sell as mods, but I have never seen any for these bikes.
 

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I have still not done anything with my bike yet as the chain link never arrived. The Royal Mail say they delivered it, but I never received it so there is nothing I can do but order another one.

(In the U.K. the Royal Mail delivers the post, but in the U.S. the Postal service delivers the mail. Most odd.)

But as I was out at 1am this morning, I thought I would see how well the top box lighting works in a dark corner of an unlit yard. I think it is bright enough. Incidentally, I was correct that the problem with the remote unlocking of the box was needing to reset the receiver.

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I also have a small knob.

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You can only just see it, and it almost works. Because of the fob that sits over it for locking, the arm to the screen was getting in the way with it on the left. So once I tidy up the wiring I can temporarily remove the screen to reposition it out of the way

Ideally i think it needs a second arm so it can sit more inside the screen. But if I do that I will just replace the knob with a standard bolt on that Cheaper and probably more secure. I already own another medium arm somewhere that I used to use to mount a camera, so just need a double ball to try that.

The new chain link should arrive tomorrow, hopefully it will this time. I have an appointment with a nurse in the morning, but if I can get the chain sorted in the afternoon then I might be able to ride it on Sunday. I assume I can tax online on a Sunday.

And that might be my last chance for a while, as I am expecting to be put on a new medication on Friday, and will then need to adjust to that before I can safely ride. Mind, we seem to be entering a second wave of Covid infections, so I would not be surprised if at some point I am forced back into isolation anyway.
 

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Scowled at it in exasperation.

The new chain link did arrive, though I was too tired to do anything yesterday. But in the month-or-so since I last checked the chain it had rusted again, not surprising though it has not been that wet. And on cleaning and investigating this afternoon, more links seem to be frozen now.

Time to admit is is dead.

Thankfully I bought the new chain and sprockets in readiness, was hoping to not have to do the latter for a while but I guess I have no choice. Possibly can do that tomorrow afternoon, if not a job for Tuesday.

I also ordered the double RAM ball and some M6 allen cap bolts with nyloc nuts for the GPS mount. That is more of a priority now as I want to make sure I am happy riding with it in its new position before I remove old brake reservoir mount. Which I need to do to mount the Nemo2 chain oiler in its place. I have not found a better place on the bike for it, but that seems the most suitable anyway as then I can also use it whilst riding. Which is probably better for longer trips, especially in bad weather. And I want to get that set up as soon as possible with the new chain to keep it in good health as long as possible.
 

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Scowled at it in exasperation.

The new chain link did arrive, though I was too tired to do anything yesterday. But in the month-or-so since I last checked the chain it had rusted again, not surprising though it has not been that wet. And on cleaning and investigating this afternoon, more links seem to be frozen now.

Time to admit is is dead.

Thankfully I bought the new chain and sprockets in readiness, was hoping to not have to do the latter for a while but I guess I have no choice. Possibly can do that tomorrow afternoon, if not a job for Tuesday.

I also ordered the double RAM ball and some M6 allen cap bolts with nyloc nuts for the GPS mount. That is more of a priority now as I want to make sure I am happy riding with it in its new position before I remove old brake reservoir mount. Which I need to do to mount the Nemo2 chain oiler in its place. I have not found a better place on the bike for it, but that seems the most suitable anyway as then I can also use it whilst riding. Which is probably better for longer trips, especially in bad weather. And I want to get that set up as soon as possible with the new chain to keep it in good health as long as possible.
The new chain must an endless one ?
 

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New chain is a D.I.D. 520VX3 G&B, which is the sort I used on my previous bike. Got both a clip and rivet link for it, but will use the latter. The current chain is a stock replacement one, which is a basic D.I.D. 520VO with a riveted link.
 
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