I use Repsol oil aimed at 4-stroke motorcycles. Works great. Don't know how easy is it to be sourced outside of Spain, though.I am a religious Amsoil user in all my rigs, so of course, that's what i plan on using in my cbr. Though, the tech in me is curious still, as to what everyone else uses and how it works out for them.
I thought about using the lock and rest together, but decided there's no need. With the palm rest, I had to keep my wrist at a certain angle, and after an hour or so, my hand still got numb. If I set the rest so my wrist could be straighter, it became a safety issue because I was revving the motor when I didn't mean to. So the lock has solved everything by allowing me to just flex my hand and wrist for a few seconds whenever needed. The panniers sound great!I tried grip puppies on my bike but I think the increased diameter made they caused as many problems as they solved. Then when winter came they obviously reduced the effect of the heated grips so I removed them and never put them back.
You can use a palm rest and a throttle lock together, Zuben. I have both, though I only use the lock for the very brief moments when I want to take my hand away completely. With the palm rest though I can do just that, let my palm control the throttle and straighten my fingers. It is my most important accessory.
I kind-of did something for my bike yesterday, I ordered Givi panniers. I already own the racks as I got them in a stock clearance sale, but I am not to keen on side-opening ones, which are the only types Givi (or Kappa) support for the 500F. So I had intended to make my own ammo box ones before my dad became very ill last summer.
Finding suitable sized boxes in the U.K. is difficult, and I do not feel enthusiasm for the effort of sanding and painting then, particular as I have no suitable working area. So when I saw the Givi ones were £100-off I was seduced by all the extra capacity. I will be able to leave the bike unattended when I have extra luggage, which I would not do when it is just rok-strapped to the pillion seat. And no more carrying my jacket around on hot days because the top box is full with my helmet and other junk.
I recently did my first oil change and took the safe route. Bought Honda oil and filter at the dealer, and got the little filter wrench in a "kit". Asked for a crush washer, and they gave it to me for free. First time dealing with this dealer, so all's good. The actual oil change was a snap, but I've been doing oil changes for a long timeIm almost to this point... at 300 miles now... just 300 more per dealer recommendation... I cant wait... I want to crack over that 6k mark! What oil did you use? I am a religious Amsoil user in all my rigs, so of course, that's what i plan on using in my cbr. Though, the tech in me is curious still, as to what everyone else uses and how it works out for them.
Does your 500 has ABS? Will flushed/replaced brake fluid on ABS model differ than those without? Is the mini brake bleeder required?lubed clutch cable with MOTION PRO cable luber and lube. flushed / replaced front and rear brake fluid using PRO HONDA dot 4 brake fluid and a MOTION PRO mini brake bleeder (8mm). first time doing these things on a motorcycle and still finding it easy and straight forward so far. topped off oil with HONDA hp4s too.
There's always a catch when you start doing maintenance to a motorcycle. Good news is.. it's much easier and safer to find out something needs attention while the bike's parked in your garage... than on the side of the road miles/kilometers from home.. However on the downside I found a stuck link in my chain... so a new chain is on order
This was a little my fault... heck I'm the owner, so all my fault lol. I found out the chain had a tight area not long after I bought the bike, which isn't surprising as it was 6 years old and whilst it had done 15,000km's, looking at the logs, 12,000 of those were in the first year and a half, so it did a lot of sitting since, but was cared for. I was meaning to get around to changing the chain and sprockets but was putting it off as it was a slippery slope of purchases lol -need chain tools, should I change front sprocket size, if so, I'll need a speed healer, etc. Other than the tight spot, the chain and sprockets were in good condition with no external rust or whatnot, and I've done my weekly oil and clean, but until I ran the chain over the front sprocket I didn't realise one of the links was stuck and lifting quite worryingly off the sprocket (given how it's stuck, I think it must have rusted itself together whilst on the rear sprocket during one of the sitting periods).There's always a catch when you start doing maintenance to a motorcycle. Good news is.. it's much easier and safer to find out something needs attention while the bike's parked in your garage... than on the side of the road miles/kilometers from home.
I have heard that the front sprocket wears faster than the rear, which makes sense since each front tooth sees many more chain links pass by per mile than does a rear sprocket tooth.although many people say to change sprockets and chains as a set