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Well bambams, i never thought i would say out of all the trinkets on a 2019 cb i would miss the gear indicator most of all. Well done on your mods.
 

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Installed a header on the bike and fixed a buzzing noise where the right headlamp assembly contacts the nose cowl, then went for a quick ride around town before the snow hit. Also did an oil change and some rust prevention on my Volvo XC60.
 

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Nothing. Because when I went to it I noticed the engine and frame were going through a trial separation. Hopefully it will be short lived and they will come back together in a lasting union later next week.

I had fitted some R&G Aero crash protectors, which replace one of the bolts that holds the engine in the frame. The one on the right side was still there, but on the left there was nothing but a gap between frame and engine. I tightened them to the recommended torque so no idea where or how it came off, only it is not there now. And call me overly cautious, but I only like riding bikes which having the engine fastened to the frame.

A bike shop on eBay is selling a new left-side crash protector only, so that saved me a few pounds over the full set. Which is good because Honda want £12.12 for the spacer that fills that gap. Just a small metal cylinder with a hole in it, even the bolt to go through it only costs £3.40.

All kind-of disappointing as I have not ridden my bike for fun in two months and wanted to go to the sea-side.

Instead I had covered 5,458 miles 1,455 yards just going back and forth between home and visiting my dad who has been seriously ill. And I was supposed to be going back to see him on Tuesday, which obviously now has to be put back as I wait for the parts. Hopefully they will arrive then, so I can go on Wednesday instead.
 

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Following advice on another forum, I went to check the thread in the engine case was not stripped when the bolt came out.

It did not. I know this because the bolt is still nicely fastened inside it.

It did not come loose, it snapped in two.

It could only have been caused by the engine vibrating because I have never dropped the bike on that side (and never at all since adding the crash protectors). The bike has only been parked at home or my dad's house, so no possibility of any theft attempts that put pressure on the protectors. And I have never done anything to do so myself.
 

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Following advice on another forum, I went to check the thread in the engine case was not stripped when the bolt came out.

It did not. I know this because the bolt is still nicely fastened inside it.

It did not come loose, it snapped in two.

It could only have been caused by the engine vibrating because I have never dropped the bike on that side (and never at all since adding the crash protectors). The bike has only been parked at home or my dad's house, so no possibility of any theft attempts that put pressure on the protectors. And I have never done anything to do so myself.
That's poor luck. Maybe just a defective bolt. I think you would have noticed if you had any problems aligning the engine and frame when you installed the bolt. So, I doubt there was anything done to have caused the bolt to fail. Stuff happens though. Good on you for noticing the problem before you took the bike out for a ride. It's never a good day when you start noticing stuff falling off your bike, and bouncing onto the highway. :wink:.
 

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Wasted its time.

I finally got the bike fixed on Monday. Getting the broken bolt out was a bit more of a problem than I had hoped, and so it took a while just due to coordinating schedules.

First I went to the mechanic who said the frame and engine were not properly aligned, so it
would need an engineer to do it.

Then I went to an engineer who tried a pilot hole to unscrew it, but it would not move. And thought he tried, he could not drill the bolt out because the frame was in the way.

So I went back to the mechanic (we both should have foreseen this), who loosened the engine and refastened it. Still not perfect, but there was a small bit of give in the frame and using a ratchet strap to the pillion peg had it all perfect.

Back to the engineer, who destroyed the bolt without ruining the thread. It was like watching a dentist!

I am a little concerned because once the strap was removed the frame would be putting stress on the bolt, but I was told this should not be a problem. And if a piece of fabric can hold it, surely a bolt should. But then it should not have snapped in half before.

So I am just using the OEM bolt at the moment rather than the replacement bung. I will probably swap them over though, but this time use some loctite and keep it as loose as I can safely get away with. That way if the worst happens again it will just vibrate out rather than snap. Bolts are less expensive than hourly rates, though the engineer did not want paying for his first attempt as he did not get it out, and the mechanic did not want paying for just loosening and tightening some bolts.

But I booked a service with the mechanic for next week as a full one one is due, a leaking seal needs replacing, that way it can be checked out properly, and I can pay for his efforts. Which means I can be back on the bike to visit my dad tomorrow instead of six hours on a bus.

To get the bike ready I cleaned it and the chain yesterday, when I noticed the latter looked a little loose. So today I went out in the rain, loosened the wheel, measured the chain to see how much I needed to adjust by, saw it had the correct slack, tightened it back up, measured again, still correct.

I probably should have measured before doing anything.

The bike also felt a bit slippy whilst riding the few miles between home, the mechanic, and the engineer, which I thought might be the tyres. The rear was 29 psi when the Honda spec is 42 psi. At least I did not get wet for nothing.

One effects of the bike sitting in the rain the last couple of weeks is that one and a half of the LEDs in one of the cheap spotlights I bought has stopped working. There are four in each light in one of them one is not lighting, and another is very dim. Still, I knew I was taking a gamble with them, and as they did not throw the light where I wanted I will hopefully get some better ones to mount on the forks anyway.

The only other thing I need to do now is update the maps on my TomTom, as a new section of road on the main route to my dad has opened, and the old route has been closed. And it currently says it will be finished downloading in only 40 hours and 42 minutes.
 

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Installed LED headlamps as well as an MWR race air filter last night. I also modified the stock air box. What a difference. The bike seems to have much better bottom end and a bit more at the top as well. Cruising at 80 is a lot easier now and headwinds seem to be less of a problem. I just got my CJR flashed ECU and that will go in tomorrow, too bad it just started snowing... At least I got to ride close to 100 miles this morning. You take what you can get up in these parts.
 

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Finally got the CJR flashed ECM in the bike. The install wasn't too bad but it would have been nice if Honda made the EVAP hose going to the tank a foot long instead of 3 inches. Getting that little hose back on doubled the install time. After I got everything buttoned up I rode the bike around for a bit to let it adapt. The first few miles felt rougher than stock but once I hit about 5 miles I could tell a big difference off the line and in the mid-range. I imagine it will need 50 to 100 miles to fully adapt so I'll hold off redlining the engine for a while. I'll provide more feedback after I've had a bit more time with the tune.
 

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I built an extra long front fender extension out of a curved section of a discarded automotive fender liner. It fits and functions perfectly, curves in two dimensions, hugs the front wheel better than a flat profile mud flap, and does not contact the leading lower lip of the bike's fairing. The ones available on line are not long enough to prevent mud, etc. from coating filter and pipes.
 

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I'm going to be replacing my now worn original ZR rated rear tire with a more practical V rated tire that has better grip, (dual purpose) for varied road surfaces. Why a 500 needs a ZR rated tire is beyond me. Bike maxes out at just over an actual 160 kph. I never ride at prolonged speeds anywhere close to that in everyday use.
 

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I built an extra long front fender extension out of a curved section of a discarded automotive fender liner. It fits and functions perfectly, curves in two dimensions, hugs the front wheel better than a flat profile mud flap, and does not contact the leading lower lip of the bike's fairing. The ones available on line are not long enough to prevent mud, etc. from coating filter and pipes.
I did this back in '14 when I got mine. I reinforced the existing fender with fiberglass under the middle, because I knew it would be under a lot of strain. The extension I used was made out of fiberglass by me because nothing else fit. Last season after at least 50k miles, the front fender broke just at the joint where the extension ends. No crash, no drama, but I realized that the plastic fender really needs reinforcement from BOTH sides with fiberglass, so I did that on a new fender before painting it and mounting the extension. The new assembly is now noticeably stiffer than the older one and I feel much better about it.
 

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Registered it as being off road. As a high COVID-19 risk I am supposed to isolate for twelve weeks, so while I am not riding I may as well get my tax refunded.
 

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I did an oil & filter change as we can't go out riding bikes with the lockdown in the UK. I did get a new set goodyear tyres put on the car today as the originals only had 1.5mm of tread left. yep this was essential.
For those who are interested you can defer your m.o.t. test for 6 months according to our gov/dvla in the UK, not sure about the rest of the world.
 

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I'm going to be replacing my now worn original ZR rated rear tire with a more practical V rated tire that has better grip, (dual purpose) for varied road surfaces. Why a 500 needs a ZR rated tire is beyond me. Bike maxes out at just over an actual 160 kph. I never ride at prolonged speeds anywhere close to that in everyday use.
Do you really need a v rated tyre? H rated is good to 130mph or 210kmh. V is rated to 149mph/240kmh.
 

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I was itching to take it for a drive so I took a break from work this afternoon to head outside, get the bike out of the corner, and fire it up just to get it running and let it warm up after the winter storage... Alas, for the first time it failed to start. It sounded like it was trying to crank, but it wouldn't fire. I started hearing a clicking sound after trying a few times... Hopefully the battery just needs to be charged? I hooked up my trickle charger for once, and it's hopefully working on that right now... I'll go back out in a few hours and hope to find a green light.

Knowing that there had been mice in the garage over winter (killed 2) I am mildly worried that they could have built a nest in the bike. That got me thinking that the air filter has never been replaced. I went searching, and then used the Internet to zero in on it... Looks like kind of a bitch to get to! Especially because it's behind the battery, and I already almost stripped one of the bolts fastening the battery to the box trying to hook up the tender leads (I gave up and fell back on the alligator clips when I realized the bolt head was so soft..)...

Hopefully I'll be able to take it for a ride later today, or failing that, sometime this weekend. :confused:
 
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