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Discussion Starter #1
Bucket and shim valves never need adjustment. They self correct and it is physically impossable for them to remain out if spec, and when out of spec, only by tiny margins will drift back.

Now you nut burger know it alls can break out the flame throwers.
 

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Soooo to a newbie to bucket and shim setup explain why this is the case? Otherwise why would they be adjustable with various shims? And yes...... That is a petrol can in one hand and a match in the other lol

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Discussion Starter #5
The mechanics of the system will not allow the valves to drift out that far and as parts wear and bed in, allow the valves to drift back into spec. Its controversial subject, after many years checking them. Ive learn they are safe to leave alone. Not sure on this bike yet. We need more data.
 

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I've had three bucket and shim bikes before this one and all of them needed new shims at one time or another when they were checked at the recommended interval. I guess what you are saying is that if I had left them alone they would have drifted back into spec? Interesting concept that I never heard of before. It sure would be nice, but I don"t know if I'm willing to risk a burned valve to check it out.
 

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Cam lobes and the wear surface of the buckets can wear.

Valve faces can wear.

Valve seats can recede.

Clearances should be checked per the manufacturer's intervals to ensure neither is allowing the clearance to close to zero. To ignore this based on "ideal" theory that hardened surfaces will never wear and that manufacturer's clearances will never change is asking for performance reduction at best and a burned valve at worst.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ive seen bucket and shim motors go out to over 100,000 miles with no shim changes. The clearances tend to drift back when slightly out of spec. Not sure how this motor will do with that. Not enough data as of yet. My experience with triumph bonneville and a few kawasaki's found it safe to leave it all alone. Hope this bike is the same.
 

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It's unfortunate that misinformation like this gets spread around. It's so hard for a newbie to seperate fact from fiction that alot of them end up taking something like this as Gospel.
I'm a mechanic in a Honda dealership. I've seen 600rr's that have had over 100,000 kms and have not needed any shims, same as race bikes that have been used season after season,(also 600rr's) with no shimming required. However, as of last Friday, I just did 2 450x's that both needed to be set.
For any new rider or new mechanic reading this, please believe that regardless of what type of valve adjustment your machine requires, it will, at some point, need setting..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I had a 450 and had to adjust valves all the time. They went south anyway. That 450 engine turns high rpm the reason why.
 

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At 24,000 km my valves were checked, all ok. Honda mechanic said more often to find them out at 48,000km.

I’m leaving them until at least 60,000 km.

My bike, my choice.


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Maybe we should start a thread to find more data. Who has had the valve check completed, at what mileage and what were the findings???
 

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I've done valve checks on two 2014 500Rs, both with just under 16,000 miles. Both checked OK, but at the lower end of tolerance. In a couple of weeks I will have over 32,000 miles and will check again. I'll let everybody know how it turns out.
 

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Im with hillscbr on this one.My first valve check was fine so won't get them checked again until around the 60 000 KM.At over $300.00 to have the valve check in canada im not in any rush but i will at least get new sparkplugs put in during the next valve check.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Im going to do the first valve check today on the f model, im close to 16,000 miles. I don't like the tight spaces on this bike. Totally sucks. Will post up findings. We need data.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Owned a 600 years ago that i used for track days with a disabled rev limiter. Never changed a shim on that bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Intake limit....13 to .19 ...my bike 15 to .17

Ex limit .24 to .30. ....my bike .25 to .28

So nothing out or even close, most moved by a hair either way.

Second time i removed the junk from the top of the motor. Much easier then the first time when i changed plugs at 12,000 miles.

Nothing even close to out. Unless you wanted to split hairs.

The dealer want 300 for a valve check and 500 if they make adjustments. You can buy a low mile engine on e bay for 500.

Why are we even bothering to check the **** things. Not only that, how many of these bikes will ever see 50,000 miles...what 10 percent maybe of all ever sold? Less then 1 percent ever see 100,000 miles
 

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"Not only that, how many of these bikes will ever see 50,000 miles...what 10 percent maybe of all ever sold? Less then 1 percent ever see 100,000 miles"

I hope mine will. I hope this is the last bike I will ever want to buy.
 
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