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Yep, I have a multimeter. Where should I check?

With the old battery it measure 12.4v before ignition switched on, dropped very slightly on switching on ignition, went up to +14v when running so I was happy with alternator.
Green flag guy said it may have the volts but not the Amps to kick start and said to try a new battery, hence why I got one.


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12.4 is ok but on the lower end of the scale. You need to check cranking volts. Remove the Fi fuse and crank it over for 5 seconds and check the voltage, you should see around 11volts maybe 10.5 minimum.If all that checks out at least you know the volts are ok.
 

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So does the neutral switch stop it from starting because it doesn't crank or because it cranks over and the control unit doesn't see the correct reading from the neutral switch ?
 

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So does the neutral switch stop it from starting because it doesn't crank or because it cranks over and the control unit doesn't see the correct reading from the neutral switch ?
(for probably cost reasons) the computer doesn't appear to control the starter motor crank-over. The computer controls the ignition (e.g. sensors, fuel, spark). This bike will let you crank-over endlessly and just quietly laugh at you!
 

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I don't think it's a battery problem. If the battery has enough energy to crank the engine as it does in your video the fuel and ignition circuits will have enough power to operate.

If you find yourself at home and the bike is doing this consider pulling the seat, airbox cover and air filter out. Obtain and spray a shot of ether ("Quick Start") into the inlet funnels and try to start it again. If it fires and runs for a second and then shuts off suspect fuel delivery issues. If the bike still does not fire consider looking at the ignition.

If you have fuel and spark and still no life do a compression check.

TBH, from your video it sounds to me like the bike has compression (cadence of the starter during cranking), spark and is close to firing off but is fuel-starved.
 
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Optimate battery tender is meant to be connected to the battery while on the bike with the remote leads that come with it. It constantly monitors battery condition. Modern electronics and control units perform better with correct input voltage.
Yeah the Tenders are low-amp trickle so SFA connected/disconnected. For the ops purpose, can still remove the battery to charge it, it doesn't have to be connected that's just a convenience thing... though we've assessed now the battery isn't the problem anyways. Air / Fuel / Spark, my bet is on the middle one ;)
 

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IF the bike is not in neutral than no crank.
Think about it - if it were in gear and the bike tries to start it would move forward and then fall over.
SO if not in neutral, you have to hold the clutch in.

A new battery at rest should be higher than 12.5 volts, but 14 at idle sounds good.
Need to know cranking volts.
Not entirely on heard of for a new battery to
1 - be bad
2 - not charged up fully.

TO eliminate every thought that the battery just might be the cause, take the battery out and charge it over night. And dont use a trickle charger, use a real charger.
Then install and measure cranking volts.
From there we have a base to start from.
 

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12.6v is minimum for full charged battery. 12.4v might not sound like a big voltage drop, but it is. Full charge really is around 13.2v, which is 2.2v per each of 6 cells.

Ralph
 

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Steven: Your bike is over 4 years old and has "4K" (miles? kilos?) on it, which is perhaps the problem. You mention also that it is parked outside. I would pull the tank and drain every scrap of fuel (WATER!) out of it and replace the gas with a gallon of fresh gas and try a re-start. Another suggestion is that you use a fuel stabilizer if you intend to put your bike up for more than 3 months. Gasoling/petrol turns to a gum over time and the tiny orifices in injectors and carburetor jets readily can be blocked if the gas is not replaced or treated with Sta-Bil prior to putting it up for the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hi all,

Will hopefully have time to test volts tomorrow and will report back.

It is 4k miles. Literally I only use it for 2mile commutes now, and that's only because I have to get back for the dog during a lunch break.
Every so often a go for a half decent ride to fully recharge the battery.
It gets used at least 5 days a week, 4x 2mile commutes a day. I know it isn't ideal, it's basically a workhorse that never gets fully warmed up. It is used all year round , regardless of weather (except snow) so isn't left standing.
The new battery I fully charged when I got it, even though reading was ok. It was charged with a mains powered car/motorcycle battery charger.


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Hi all,

So I have a 2016 cb500f with less than 3k on it and sometimes it has trouble starting, mainly morning's or later afternoons but it appears to be a bit random.
At first it appeared to be more of an issue featuring the clutch and sidestand so I replaced the worn neutral switch. This didn't fix the problem so was just coincidental at the time when it was playing up.
I then called out the breakdown when it wouldn't start, he connected his battery pack to it and it then started, he said it was the battery which I them replaced with a Yuasa, problem still persists I take the battery off to charge and it's full. Volt meter also shows fine.
It just seems random, could it be something to do with an automatic choke or temperature sensor?

Sometimes I have to completely turn the throttle for it to kick in to life when starting, sometimes the starter just needs pressing for 3 seconds, sometimes it starts perfectly fine. It can even be a bugger starting after going for a decent ride and being off for 5 mins.

Presume the Motul - 5000 10W-40 4T in it doesn't have anything to do with it, It was having issues, not as bad, before this service.....

Many thanks in advance for any help




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From the video it sounds like a bad starter. You can see the rpms drop while trying to crank then pickup. Typical of a bad starter.
 

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The first thing I would do is disconnect that aftermarket gear indicator and whatever else was wired in not from the factory to get the electrical system back to its original state.
 

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When it does fire up is there any brief grey smoke? If your valve stem seals are worn then you can get some oil in the cylinder which fouls the plug until the incoming fuel has washed it clean (have to open the throttle fully to get it to fire). Shouldn't be a problem at 4K miles but just a thought.
 

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Hi all,

Will hopefully have time to test volts tomorrow and will report back.

It is 4k miles. Literally I only use it for 2mile commutes now, and that's only because I have to get back for the dog during a lunch break.
Every so often a go for a half decent ride to fully recharge the battery.
It gets used at least 5 days a week, 4x 2mile commutes a day. I know it isn't ideal, it's basically a workhorse that never gets fully warmed up. It is used all year round , regardless of weather (except snow) so isn't left standing.
The new battery I fully charged when I got it, even though reading was ok. It was charged with a mains powered car/motorcycle battery charger.


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The way the bike is used , it gets a hard time mostly just into warmup to hot stage. And I guess sometimes having to start when it's niether hot or cold. I would fit a set of spark plugs, you never know.
 

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Two miles! is not enough to warm the engine up.
Take the bike out for a hour long ride once a week. You are setting up for a lot of trouble if you dont warm the bike up fully, as you are now experiencing.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Two miles! is not enough to warm the engine up.
Take the bike out for a hour long ride once a week. You are setting up for a lot of trouble if you dont warm the bike up fully, as you are now experiencing.
I know, unfortunately it's a means to an end. It was either this or an electric bike. At least I didn't keep my 600r for this job.
I spend all my free time with my 4 year old so days out on the bike no longer apply.
I give it a good run when I can but you reckon it's just 4 years of crap use has suddenly taken its toll?
Regularly serviced by Honda btw.


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This sounds like a Gremlin issue - intermittent. I think I would drain the tank as someone has already suggested and refill with fresh gas. Then try different combinations of stand down, stand up, clutch in, out, etc. See if you can find something.

Suggestion: I ALWAYS use Lucas fuel additive in all my vehicles. I purchase by the gallon, and then mix 400:1 per recommendations. Lasts a LONG time. I used on my old antique BMW and ever since. It keeps the carbs/fuel injectors and fuel lines and tank spotlessly clean.

I think there are some on here who know how to by-pass the kickstand safety, and the clutch in/out switch as well. I hate them anyway, so in the future, I myself will be bypassing them anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So this is it tonight, should hopefully clarify battery is fit.

Admittedly it wasn't a cold start as I pressed photo instead of video on the first video attempt.... It was a pig to start but I didn't pull the clutch in, it ran for about 5 seconds then I switched it off..... After, in the video it was fine with clutch in.
I need to measure the neutral switch ohms and will report back, I used the provided washer which came with it from honda. I also bought one from ghost bikes which included an additional obvious thicker one.


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