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Nearly everyone has a GPS. Use Google maps on your phone and enable gps speedometer.

16T = ~6.6% lower so about 300-400rpm at 60-70mph
What and where is a GPS on my phone? Shhhs.. I have enough problem trying to remember the right numbers to put in. And which button is send? Green or Red? Too confusing! :glassesboy
 

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Google maps uses GPS but doesn't show your speed. Here maps is available on Android and maybe iPhone and does show your speed. If you check the Play Store or Apple store, you can find apps that give instant GPS speed readouts as well as 1/4 mile and 0-60 time tracking (just know they aren't as accurate as a VBox). Some apps track the route taken and can show elevation changes as well. Most of these apps are free but have ads.
 
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Google maps uses GPS but doesn't show your speed. Here maps is available on Android and maybe iPhone and does show your speed. If you check the Play Store or Apple store, you can find apps that give instant GPS speed readouts as well as 1/4 mile and 0-60 time tracking (just know they aren't as accurate as a VBox). Some apps track the route taken and can show elevation changes as well. Most of these apps are free but have ads.
Google maps, under 'navigation settings'

I ride with mine on since I changed sprockets.
 

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Nice, I hadn't noticed the speedometer option...
 

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With the conversion to a 17T counter shaft sprocket, my bikes speed is about 5-6 mph faster than the "true" speed. The OEM speedometer is about 10% fast. I just add 5 mph to whatever speed shows and leave it at that. I only worry if I am passing cars with regularity. I am not worried about going 2-3 mph faster than the posted speed. Police will not stop you for that. The rpm reduction at any speed for a 16T sprocket just did not strike me as sufficient. With the 17T, I definitely feel the difference. My '17s mileage consistently is in the 70+ range (converted from odometer reading being 13% low after the sprocket change).



There was enough adjustment available even with a new bike's chain to nor require a longer chain. I just moved the rear wheel as far forward as possible and then had enough slack to run the wheel back a bit for proper chain tension.



Ralph
I take it you're running a 17/41??

I've been thinking about doing it for the same reason as you, more or less, but was only looking for a 16 to start, would you say there is a big difference in characteristics between the two?

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
 

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I take it you're running a 17/41??

I've been thinking about doing it for the same reason as you, more or less, but was only looking for a 16 to start, would you say there is a big difference in characteristics between the two?

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
Yes, a 17/41. As the 17T is somewhat larger in diameter than the OEM 15T, you will need to grind away a little metal from the case saver in front of the countershaft sprocket. There is a "how to" with photos on this forum.

The 17 is as incrementally better in reducing cruising rpm than the 16 as the 16 would be to the 15. Each lowers rpm by about 6.5%. As to the effect, a lot depends on your preference for acceleration over cruising speed at lower rpm. 600 rpm reduction with the 17 at 60 mph is considerable. I'm rather a lightweight, so more amply-constructed riders might find a 17 a bit "tall" for getting away from stops or entering bottom gear corners. I'm not finding that at all.
 

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Yes, a 17/41. As the 17T is somewhat larger in diameter than the OEM 15T, you will need to grind away a little metal from the case saver in front of the countershaft sprocket. There is a "how to" with photos on this forum.



The 17 is as incrementally better in reducing cruising rpm than the 16 as the 16 would be to the 15. Each lowers rpm by about 6.5%. As to the effect, a lot depends on your preference for acceleration over cruising speed at lower rpm. 600 rpm reduction with the 17 at 60 mph is considerable. I'm rather a lightweight, so more amply-constructed riders might find a 17 a bit "tall" for getting away from stops or entering bottom gear corners. I'm not finding that at all.
Thanks

Think I'll try a 16 first, and I had a look at ratios last night, not overly keen on grinding out the the case saver, I might go for a 16/40, it should be about half way between a 16/41 and a 17/41, and without any grinding that's probably about perfect, gonna have to test them out tho

Also, that 600rpm drop at 17, is that from 16 or when compared to the OEM 15??

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
 

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Yes, a 17/41. As the 17T is somewhat larger in diameter than the OEM 15T, you will need to grind away a little metal from the case saver in front of the countershaft sprocket. There is a "how to" with photos on this forum.



The 17 is as incrementally better in reducing cruising rpm than the 16 as the 16 would be to the 15. Each lowers rpm by about 6.5%. As to the effect, a lot depends on your preference for acceleration over cruising speed at lower rpm. 600 rpm reduction with the 17 at 60 mph is considerable. I'm rather a lightweight, so more amply-constructed riders might find a 17 a bit "tall" for getting away from stops or entering bottom gear corners. I'm not finding that at all.
Thanks

Think I'll try a 16 first, and I had a look at ratios last night, not overly keen on grinding out the the case saver, I might go for a 16/40, it should be about half way between a 16/41 and a 17/41, and without any grinding that's probably about perfect, gonna have to test them out tho

Also, that 600rpm drop at 17, is that from 16 or when compared to the OEM 15??

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
That's from the 15T factory one.
16T is about 300 rpm.
 

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I have a 18 cbr500r and I just did a sprocket and chain change. Purchased off Revzilla. I don’t care about going 120-160 like I have on my other bikes in the past. I like going fast 0-80-90. So I went up in the back from 41 to 43 and dropped one in the front from 15 To 14. Big difference, feels like a different bike. Also I clutchless shift up whenever possible. It’s very easy. Have to be at least 75% of rpm in gear and with a little tap and a small roll off the throttle I am faster than traditional. I personally had several mechanics tell no big deal, it’s not much difference than paying all that money for a clutch less shifter, good luck
 

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I went with a change to 16T. Found the indicated speed to be almost perfect compared to the optimistic indication provided with the stock sprocket. I weigh about 180# so this change was perfect for me. Not looking for a 7th gear any more. :)
 

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Not looking for a 7th gear any more. :)
I also changed to a 16T front sprocket (stock rear). I've found that I typically shift from 22-25mph from first to second whereas it used to be 14-17mph. In second, I'm shifting at 35 to 40 (35 is hovering around 5,000RPM) whereas before I was shifting around 25-28 mph to third. When I'm jumping on the highway, I'm accelerating to 70mph in 4th before I feel like I have to shift and I am finding myself constantly in 5th gear on the highway, cruising along just fine and then checking to see if I'm in 6th already by shifting and finding out I wasn't.

If I am in 6th gear and want to accelerate to pass (going 60-65mph), I definitely feel like I have to shift down to 5th as I don't really feel 6th gear pull like I did with the stock setup (not that it was a ton but I never felt I had to shift down unless I reeaalllyyyy wanted to accelerate as quickly as possible) until I'm running at around 75-80 mph. I'm definitely in 1st through entire turns from a stop way, way more than before.

Regarding speed correction, I do have a radar detector speed limit indicator sign where I work that shows my speedometer indicated speed is 1 mph slower than actual speed. I've also gone by other police radar speed limit indicator signs which show the same exact difference.
 

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Hi guys, can somone share what is a good setup for second gear wheelies on 2016 CBR 500R? Thank you
 

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Maybe a larger rear sprocket? A stock CBR500R will do wheelies in 1st but 2nd requires a more aggressive procedure. Shorter gearing could get you what you're looking for if you don't care about redlining at 90 MPH. I don't think a CBR500R will ever be a good stunt bike though...
 
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When I went to a 16T on front it cleared up the speedometer from 6% error to only 1% or less. (GPS'ed) The engine was now correctly loaded in top gear and I didn't feel the need to look for 7th any more.
 

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Can any of you that went to the 16/39 combo tell me if they had to remove a link to 110 links instead of the stock 112? My chain has 5k miles in it and wasn't to worn yet but with the new change it is loose when the axle is pushed back as far as it will go. I also am not sure how far forward it will move the axle by removing a link. Also 112 is divisible by 16 so the chain and front sprocket will always hit the same teeth/links so a 110 change would be beneficial there as well. Any advice to what any of you did?
 

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Do the 500R, 500F, and 500X all come with the same sprocket setup?

Picked up a '19 500R and was thinking of going up slightly to elongate the gears for better takeoffs and cruising. It's okay as-is but I figure if it costs so little to improve it a bit, why not?
 

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It seems quite a few people think the gearing is a bit on the revvy side. I find that 85 to 90 mph in top is in the sweet spot, I fancy going up two teeth on the rear but I am waiting for a guinea pig to do it first. You have more highways than the UK I think. My bike sits at 75mph on the motorway no probs.
 

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It seems quite a few people think the gearing is a bit on the revvy side. I find that 85 to 90 mph in top is in the sweet spot, I fancy going up two teeth on the rear but I am waiting for a guinea pig to do it first. You have more highways than the UK I think. My bike sits at 75mph on the motorway no probs.
85-90 mph at redline/fuel cutoff?

I don't really think it suits the style of bike, which is more relaxed and economical in my opinion. If I wanted it to be higher strung I'd have gotten the Ninja 400 instead. I also don't think it benefits much from shorter gearing since the engine is so tuned for low-end power. Just my $0.02.

You're right that we have a lot of highways here. Most of our roads are wide, straight, and flat, compared with Europe. To get anywhere in my city involves jumping on the freeway (100-120 km/h) for a bit unless you're staying local.
 

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85 to 90mph in top is about 8,300 I think, limiter comes in at about 9,200. Don't like running it too long at that speed. The roads I ride are usually short and squirt, 2nd to 5th gear.I find it doesn't mind being revved. If you search the forum some riders are getting 100,000km out of these engines. It's a testimant to Honda reliability.
 
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