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Dropping one tooth on the front is a common "mod" - better acceleration / pull (wheelie time! lol) but lowers top end a tad...but with a 180-190kph top end, I dont think that would concern me very much :)

Dave
 

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True, personally I would probably never go above 100 mph so having extra torque and sacrificing a few mph at the top end seems worth it.
 

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I am thinking on sacrificing top end for some extra pull by changing the sprockets for city use but would like to keep the stock ones for touring where top speeds are important for me.
 

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I been playing this game on my dirtbikes for years. It's a cheap mod that makes a difference.
Usually it's 1-tooth on the front equals 3-teeth on the rear.
Changing 1-tooth on the front will make a pretty big difference.
Keep in mind, when you add teeth to the rear, or go with less teeth on the front, you will also shorten-up the gear spread.
You will gain acceleration, lose top-end, and you will be shifting sooner and more often.
Some people don't like that. They want to stretch the gears out between shifts.
I might add a tooth or two to the rear, but that's about it.
Definitely going to ride it for awhile before I think about making any changes. It might be really close to perfect the way it is.
Usually, factory ratios are a good compromise in the middle.
 

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Also is the speedo pick up from front sprocket? As if so i think changing gearing means speedo is not going to read correctly will then need a speedo healer. Pick might be elsewhere though.
I did same mod on my hornet 600 dropped one on front then added 2 to rear and got a nice renthal sprocket.
 

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Also is the speedo pick up from front sprocket? As if so i think changing gearing means speedo is not going to read correctly will then need a speedo healer. Pick might be elsewhere though.
I did same mod on my hornet 600 dropped one on front then added 2 to rear and got a nice renthal sprocket.
Yep, it will definitely make the speedo incorrect, if it is like the CBR250R, -1 tooth on the front will cause it to read high. Speedo healer will fix it.

On a related note, I do hope that the 500's have more accurate speedos than the 250s. Outside the USA, they are all 8-10% high. That bites the big one: I now sit on 65, 75, 85, 110, and 120 kph indicated to get true speeds of *approximately* 60, 70, 80, 100 and 110. Its a compromised rounding off of the 8% error...

Dave
 

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Yep, it will definitely make the speedo incorrect, if it is like the CBR250R, -1 tooth on the front will cause it to read high. Speedo healer will fix it.

On a related note, I do hope that the 500's have more accurate speedos than the 250s. Outside the USA, they are all 8-10% high. That bites the big one: I now sit on 65, 75, 85, 110, and 120 kph indicated to get true speeds of *approximately* 60, 70, 80, 100 and 110. Its a compromised rounding off of the 8% error...

Dave
Dave, my (Canadian) CBR500R speedo reads 6% high based on GPS
 
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Dave, my (Canadian) CBR500R speedo reads 6% high based on GPS
Yep most modern Honda motorcycles read about 6% high

There are a couple of Speedohealer type devices on the market ranging form around $60 to $120
 

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Yep most modern Honda motorcycles read about 6% high

There are a couple of Speedohealer type devices on the market ranging form around $60 to $120
You have to be careful using a device like this because its actually a little known law in the US that vehicles speedo's have to read a certain amount high
 

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I swapped out the front sprocket (1 tooth, a 14 as I recall) in my 230L to drop the R's a couple hundred across the board. Sure is nice to go from 5k rpms in 6th at 50mph to 4800rpms. I can almost get through an intersection without changing gears now. I want to do the same with the CBR :cool:
 

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Wah there still aren't any front sprockets out yet :(
 

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sprocket change for more torgue or speed

I've thought about dropping a tooth in the front for more torque. To me torque is more fun who needs to run 130 on the street anyways?
I agree with your no need for 130 mph,however, I feel the 500r fisrt gear is already too low for me.i need to go up 1 on countershaft if possible for better highway cruising,i'm planning a cross-country ride very soon and hope I find a supplier of sprocket for her,tref
 

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I'm still looking for sprockets myself.

I'm in-contact with a company right now, but they want me to send them my sprockets so they can reverse-engineer them.

If I send them the sprockets, my bike no longer goes down the road!
You can get OEM sprockets front and rear for under $100 I think.
The company needs to buy them, and start working on it.

At least make a +1 and -1 front sprocket. That would give us a choice.

Since this is a new model bike, they think the countershaft splines might be unique.
They would have to make it from scratch.
There would have to be enough of a demand to justify it.
 

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Is the already available 39 rear not enough of a change for you Mantis?

I'm not saying this is gospel but aftermarket front sprockets have a bad reputation on some Hondas. The Transalp uses a spline and locating plate for the front sprocket which alows some 'float'. It also means that the splines wear slightly because of the movement with some bikes stripping the splines after only 30 or 40k miles. This has been put down to aftermarket sprockets which 'they' say are harder than the OEM ones and thus wear the splines on the output shaft instead of the ones on the sprocket.

I've noticed that although the 500's have a different system for attaching the sprocket, it still allows it to float so the same thing may happen. You'd hope not as you would think Honda would have learnt their lesson but would be worth checking. Also probably not an issue unless you are thinking of putting a lot of miles on your bike.
 

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Hey guys.
I've been speaking with the guys at TYGA and they tell me they've just finished making a bunch of sprockets ranging from 39-43 teeth.
They'll be on the website within a week or two.
 

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On a related note, I do hope that the 500's have more accurate speedos than the 250s. Outside the USA, they are all 8-10% high. That bites the big one: I now sit on 65, 75, 85, 110, and 120 kph indicated to get true speeds of *approximately* 60, 70, 80, 100 and 110. Its a compromised rounding off of the 8% error...

Dave
Interesting info Dave. :smilecolour

It can be hard to get accurate calibrations. I once stopped my car next to a highway speed trap (I hadn't been speeding) and asked one of the coppers if they could check my speedo for me if I did another run past them.

She agreed but, sadly there was quite a bit of other traffic and every time I went round again I got swept up in the thundering herd and the cops were too busy pinging other drivers. I gave up after a few attempts.

Occasionally I've seen a unit mounted on a trailer parked at the roadside that puts your speed up in lights along with a safety message. But I haven't seen one for years.

Maybe I need to go up to the highway one night with a tape measure, a pot of paint and a stopwatch and mark out a test strip. I wonder how accurate odometers are?

Cheers,

Chris
 

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Interesting info Dave. :smilecolour

It can be hard to get accurate calibrations. I once stopped my car next to a highway speed trap (I hadn't been speeding) and asked one of the coppers if they could check my speedo for me if I did another run past them.

She agreed but, sadly there was quite a bit of other traffic and every time I went round again I got swept up in the thundering herd and the cops were too busy pinging other drivers. I gave up after a few attempts.

Occasionally I've seen a unit mounted on a trailer parked at the roadside that puts your speed up in lights along with a safety message. But I haven't seen one for years.

Maybe I need to go up to the highway one night with a tape measure, a pot of paint and a stopwatch and mark out a test strip. I wonder how accurate odometers are?

Cheers,

Chris
Use a GPS. They are almost dead on since they use math to figure out your speed. They just don't update as often as your speedo, so you have to maintain a steady speed for a minute or so to get an accurate reading.
 
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Use a GPS. They are almost dead on since they use math to figure out your speed. They just don't update as often as your speedo, so you have to maintain a steady speed for a minute or so to get an accurate reading.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll see if I can try it out. :thumbsup


Currently I don't count knowing how to operate a GPS among my skills, probably because I still seem to be able to get around without buying one. But I do get to drive the local fire truck from time to time and there's one in that so I'll have to get one of the lads to give me some tuition. Maintaining the speed for a while shouldn't be a problem - we've got lights and sirens to help clear the road. And being a volunteer, brigade we do still enjoy turning them on when required. :grin
 
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