You're not wrong.As mentioned above very well - and this in your posts tells us a bunch -
"I'm still experimenting (in a parking lot because it's hard to focus this hard on the dash without it being hazardous otherwise)... sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It's easier in the 2nd to 3rd or higher shifts, but it's still a bit notchy "
Your eyes do not belong on the dash no matter if you've only been riding 2 weeks or 20 years, and even if your "practicing".
You need to shift out of 1st early and at a lower rpm then most gears. IF you must start out in 2nd. You wont hurt anything.
You have to enjoy riding more and stop nitpicking on this thing.
If mine jerks a bit when I get on it from 1st to 2nd I DONT CARE.
I ran into a post on the CB650R forum that was almost identical to my experience. 5 page thread that details just how vague the shifter can be, often getting stuck in N, giving that notchy feel I'm trying so hard to describe etc. On that thread, shifter joints and shift shaft freeplay came up a lot. I checked, and I see exactly what they're talking about and what you might have experienced; you put the slightest upward pressure (with just a finger even), and there's just a general sense of "looseness" - not on the spindle and arm clamp, but the whole set up just feels vague/wobbly.Didn't want to start a new thread so I am adding it to this one. I hade a new top ball joint and lever on the transmission under warranty because of free play. Now the lower one has gone. So I removed the old joint, drilled the lever out to 8mm, fitted a sleeve, and bolted on a 6mm rose joint. Boy oh boy what a difference, it's now better than perfect. I will replace the top one as soon as it gets any Play in it whatsoever.
Ebay has them, but also RaceTorx (the more premium one) is what everyone swears by. Ships from the UK actually .If someone can tell me how to upload a photo I will show you my mod. I looked for a gear shift support but couldn't find one, where did your's come from.
That looks great... definitely can see the sturdiness in comparison to stock. Nice.
I very rarely use the clutch when up-shifting.I've been fiddling around quite a bit with different shift points on my 2020 CB500F (bought new, now has about 11k kms) to try and get buttery upshifts. Earlier last year I had issues with truly horrendous gear crunching that turned out to be a warped clutch, which was replaced. All is still well, and the crunchiness is gone, but now I've been trying to learn the conditions for always getting an almost seemless 1-2 shift. It works sometimes, but other times 2nd goes in with a bit more "click" or thud (thankfully not a crunch like it used to).
I've worked it down to timing of the throttle/clutch/upshift movement where I have to almost exaggerate my movements to get it exactly right with a tiny bit of shift pedal preload. But what I've been experimenting with lately is trying to get all that movement to happen in the right rev range for 2nd. I went on gear commander site and input all the different values required, and the site spat out a rev range for all the gears and the wheel speed in each gear at different rpm intervals.
Here's my question for rev matching (on upshifts):
I know the idea is not to lose so much rpm when trying to shift up (waiting too long before clicking up for example), but am I supposed to be matching the rpm that would be around the same speed I'm shifting at for the upcoming gear?
Here's a sample - I like shifting around 4k rpm, or a little less if bike is still cold, or a little more if bike is all warmed up. So, at 4300rpm, 1st gear wheel speed is at around 27/28kph. The table shows that in second gear, 27kph should be around 2800rpm. Is the objective here to let the rpms drop from 4300 to 2800 just as I click up into 2nd? Thats a 1500rpm drop, and higher if I'm stretching 1st gear a bit more before I shift (6k to 4k if shifting around 40kph).
Have I got the idea right? If so, how accurate do I need to be?
I'm still experimenting (in a parking lot because it's hard to focus this hard on the dash without it being hazardous otherwise)... sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It's easier in the 2nd to 3rd or higher shifts, but it's still a bit notchy (almost like 2 clicks to get into gear, or a slap sound) if I don't get it right, which is not often.
How do you mean the arm side, do you mean engine side of the joint. By the way grease well before fitting and put some oil in as well. You just have to squirt a bit of oil in when you feel it's necessary. Just had my first ride with it.That looks great... definitely can see the sturdiness in comparison to stock. Nice.
Do you have to grease the ball joints often since they're exposed?
Lastly, sorry to hassle you, but can you snap a pic that shows the arm side on the spindle as well please? 👍
Yeah, it's great in the 2-6 range and it's lightening quick and smooth with a quick roll off and shifter preload action. Feels so nice, with a little burble/pop/snort from the exhaust...so satisfying. I don't do it often, but know the technique very well.I very rarely use the clutch when up-shifting.
Yeah, planning on going with the real support as opposed to the knock off, which I should have done in the first place because I'm arguing with a Chinese company for a refund and it's like pulling teeth. If the shifts continue to be this positive (which they have been this morning), then I think I've cracked it and like you said eventually it'll become second nature.Well that's good to hear you have a plan, and eventually it will become second nature. The only thing I would say is treat your self to a gear shift support, I changed one gear rod joint for a rose joint as you know and it is like night and day by removing that little bit of free play. So I think that bit of flex you have in the shift arm would be better off with a support fitted.