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Discussion Starter #1
I had a get off when crossing an underwater bridge (stream runs over the bridge). Surface was slick with Algae and DUMB DUMB ME decided to gas it (show off with more water spray).

Rear wheel slide to the right, I went down. Bike ended up off bridge (about a 6 inch drop) on it's side in shallow water (10 inch +/-). I was still on the bridge on my side. Fortunately, a couple was there to help stand it up and another couple came to help as we pushed bike t dry land. And, the 2nd couple offered to get a trailer and take me and bike home (50 miles away - I paid them). .

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Anyway, I think when bike went over the edge of the bridge, punched good size hole in the Oil pan (left side of bike).
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Quick look appears easy to remove pan, I have not looked closely because my right shoulder is a bit stiff from the go down. Maybe rear bolts hard to get at (take a closer look later when shoulder is less sore).

Just wondering if anyone has replaced and had posted any info on replacement.

Checked parts online for oil pan and filter (looks like $90 to $97 with shipping and taxes).
 

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Pleased your not knocked about too much, the bike will mend. . By the filter I guess you mean the the oil pickup pipe, that would be a good idea. It should be straightforward, slacken the bolts in a criss cross pattern and not remove them one at a time. Use a quality gasket maker on refitting. Tighten the bolts in a criss cross pattern in two to three stages to the correct torque, oil and filter change, job done.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pleased your not knocked about too much, the bike will mend. . By the filter I guess you mean the the oil pickup pipe, that would be a good idea. It should be straightforward, slacken the bolts in a criss cross pattern and not remove them one at a time. Use a quality gasket maker on refitting. Tighten the bolts in a criss cross pattern in two to three stages to the correct torque, oil and filter change, job done.
Thanks -- I meant Gasket (not filter), but you bring up a point (oil pickup pipe, not sure what is inside the Oil Pan). Find out when I start on the project.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Guess no one has had to replace a Oil Pan (happy for you), but hoped someone had info on any issues doing it. I will try to update when I finally get to the task.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oil Pan is OFF, I took Muffler off and disconnected Exhaust Pipe and Catalytic Converter, but hung them so did not have to take O2 Sensor loose (could take it loose once exhaust pipe is disconnected - hard to get a wrench on it until exhaust pipe is disconnected).

Only issue concerning me now is getting everything back together (LOL) after I get parts ( I am confused about need or difficulty in changfing Exhaust Gasket -- think will try as is and if have to change it later (about $7 but not sure about changing it).

Priced several Online Parts and one local Dealer. Prices vary and have to consider shipping costs and taxes (nearly every online now charges taxes).
EX: Oil Pan and Gasket Prices:
Cheap Cycle Parts ($68.13 & $5.54 + Ship $13.85 + Tax $8.53 = $96.05;
PARTZILLA ($76.34 & $6.14 + Ship $9.95 + Tax $9.01 = $101.44;
Local Dealer ($82.99 & $6.99 + Tax $8.77 = $98.75 (said they would price match - check back, I did but confusion on Chaparral Price - so went with Chaparral).
Chaparral where I finally ordered $82.90 +$6.02 - a PROM of $16.30 + Ship (free) + Tax $7.00 = $78.81.

PS: The confusion on Chaparral with local dealer price match was -- go to their Chaparral web site and put in PN 11210-MGZ-J80 and get $82.90 ($0.09 less than local dealer). However, go to Chaparral and enter Honda Model CB500X and get a parts diagram and choose oil pan is $69.90. So, local dealer used the PN and was near same as his price ($0.09 difference). I called Chaparral and got the $69.90 & $4.91 deal. However came on confirmation E Mail at $82.90 & $6.02 (gasket) with the PROMO of -$16.30. VERY CONFUSING but satisfied I got the best price could at $78.81 includes tax and shipping (free in this case).

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Discussion Starter #7
Missed showing manifold exhaust port (Gasket question in my mind). I would think the exhaust pipe would fit back and not leak as it is. If that ring is a gasket, I am not sure how to get it out or a new one in, so think will just install pipes and hope. Not to hard to get back in there if need to replace a gasket.
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Missed showing manifold exhaust port (Gasket question in my mind). I would think the exhaust pipe would fit back and not leak as it is. If that ring is a gasket, I am not sure how to get it out or a new one in, so think will just install pipes and hope. Not to hard to get back in there if need to replace a gasket.
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Have been told need to replace the washer - new to me it is a copper compressed washer. Now realize thee is a copper color to it. I am still do not know what part that I see is the washer. I was told to pry it out witha pick or screw driver and push a new one in. The one part does look like copper ring, but I thought the exhaust pipe goes up against the very outer flat smooth surface (also copper color)?

Guess will find out when I pry it out (hopefully I can get it out).
 

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You are doing a great job. Did you check the oil pickup pipe for damage, that will be a tube that bolts up to the engine and sits in the lowest part of the sump when it is bolted up. Worth a look. Those exhaust gaskets are round copper rings, i was going to replace mine but Honda wanted £7 a gasket so i left well alone, i will have to replace them next time though. Why don't you disconnect the o2 sensor and remove the exhaust system, it will make it so much easier to do the job. Have you tried BABBITS online for spare parts ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks for thoughts. A bit difficult to get a wrench on O2 Sensor and hold things steady while loosening it -- it is not in the way tied up as I did. However, I do have concern about putting stress on the wires and that might be an issue putting the pipes back on.
I did manage to get the Exhaust Gaskets out once I got some input from more knowledgeable folks about the gasket being a copper "O" Ring (nice to have some one with knowledge). Guess should have realized when first looking at this that there was a copper something in there.
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They suggested to pry them out with a pick or a screwdriver. I used a pick at the edge (took a few tries as they are pretty tight). Think be about $7 or $8 for the two of them, it depends on where you get them (probably go to local dealer on this as not be a lot of difference in price as there was on the Oil Pan and it's Gasket - near $20 difference since Chaparral had a Promo).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks I did think to remove the O2, and may yet. Depends on how much trouble I have aligning the exhaust pipes to the motor. That said, up to now no issue with removing the oil pan and exhaust pipes with the O2 on. (hope I did not strain the wiring).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
BTW, parts (Oil Pan and Gasket I think both) that I ordered from Chaparral are scheduled to arrive today (30th March) per E Mail from Tracking info. I have the exhaust gaskets bought locally (couple bucks higher at like $10). Have some stuff going on and it may be a week or more before I get this thing back together or maybe get it done today and tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I hope this maybe help someone if ever need to replace exhaust or an oil pan (not a high probability of that). .
Parts (oil pan and gasket -- $78 with tax fro Chaparral) arrived yesterday and I had the Copper O Ring exhaust gaskets from a local dealer (cost $2 more) $10 plus tax for the two of them. I installed today (April 1 and I am not fooling LOL). So, add the $63 I gave the guy that hauled me home (50 Mile each way for him and worth it to get it home where I could fix myself).

BTW: Road Emergency will only take you to closest repair place and will not even let your ride with the tow driver (Covid Concern). They will help you get a taxi, uber, or you can call someone to get you at the accident scene. GROAN.

Oil Pan install went smooth. I used a very thin coating of grease on the gasket to keep it in place, installed one bolt part way and then another (ones easy to get to by hand). Then finger tightened those and installed the others. Then tightened all (did not torque - just guessed as tight as old was).

Hardest part was reinstalling the exhaust. I used grease on the Copper O Ring washer to hold them in the motor and centered as well as I could. I found it helped to install (loosely) the back bolt that holds the rear of the exhaust and catalytic converter to the frame (see photo). That keeps the end from flopping around while trying to get the pipes into the motor. Leaving the O2 Sensor installed worked OK (it would be hard to get to it when exhaust is installed).

Then holding the pipes in place while moving the clamp onto the studs and getting a nut started was a bit of an issue (could use another person's hand when doing that). I managed by putting the nuts on the extended socket to get a nut started (same extended socket used to get nuts off). See picture.

Finally, I did a test ride and took a picture (cleanest this bike has been as took some time to clean it up while waiting parts). I even cleaned the windshield off, it popped off the bracket at accident scene and did not break. So, took it apart and cleaned it. BTW, that is an upside down Burgman 400 Scooter windshield modified to fit (sort of fit, but forced the bolt and nuts). It is my winter windshield, rdie when it is in upper 30sF or 40SF.
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Then pictures to show the exhaust pipe install (pictures taken during removal of parts). 1st shows bolt I installed (loosely) before trying to align pipes in hole on motor. 2nd shows extended socket used to remove nuts and also to install nuts. With the new O Ring washer (being about 1/8 thick) and the clamp over the studs, there is not a lot of thread left to start the nuts on the stud treads (it would be hard to get your fingers in there - I did on the first nut on far right - would be left side of bike). I was working from right side of bile laying on the floor. .
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You did good, thanks for the info and pictures. I'm sure it will help others and give confidence to those hoping to carry out there own repairs.
 
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