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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys!

I've always been a lurker on these forums...getting inspiration from all the cool posts.
Now I want to share what I've done to my bike!

As of late I've been very obsessed over losing weight on the bike. Story goes, couple months back I just swapped the stock battery for a lithium ion battery. When I did my test ride, I just happen to have one bar of gas left in the tank. Well, the bike handled and accelerated SOOOooooo much better, putting a big grin on my face..I kept saying to myself.... BEST MOD EVER! That feeling got me hooked! Until I filled up my gas that is.

Well, after that experience, I've been slowly modding (or some would say F-ing up) my bike /forum/images/CBR500Riders_2015/smilies/tango_face_devil.png. My goal was to get that same feeling that day, however with a full tank of gas.
So far I managed to shave approximately 30lb off the bike (that number includes adding back the weight of aftermarket parts). I want to cut another 15 - 20 lb while in street trim.
If you guys have questions on any of the mods below, want details, feedback, just let me know! I'd be glad to help out!


Mods:
-Powerbronze double bubble smoke windscreen
-Black windscreen bolts
-Carbon fiber mirror block off plates
-Bar end mirrors
-Aluminum/rubber hand grips
-Black Pazzo shorty levers
-Rotary style steering damper
-1" riser aluminum clip-ons gold/black
-Sag set for 160lb rider
-Motoholders aluminum black street fairing stay
-front fender brace delete
-Gauge cluster holder shroud delete
-Digital gear counter
-Inner fairing cowl modifications
-Proton flushmounts
-Sato style frame sliders
-Sato style rear sets
-Aluminum oil filler cap
-Luimoto tank leaf, knee grips and tank protector
-Luimoto race style suede rider and passenger seat cover
-Luimoto comfort gold gel
-Front seat lightening modifications
-Passenger seat lightening modifications
-Vagabond exhaust hanger and oem rear foot pegs delete
-Leovince gp dual stainless steel slip-on
-MWR street performance filter w/airbox square hole mod
-WPS featherweight lithium ion battery
-Rear passenger subframe modified/lightened (I do not take passengers)
-Passenger seat key lock delete
-No manual and tool kit
-Tst industries fender eliminator and license plate light
-Motive swingarm cover and hugger
-Black spools
-Slim led rear signals
-Various rainbow ti bolts
-Various removal of unneeded oem brackets replaced with cable ties

estimated: 397lb wet

Still need to do this winter:
Smartmoto pair valve removal block off plate
Rapid bike evo module
Tst Industries oem rear brake reservoir delete kit
Ixil de-cat header
adreani fork cartridges
weigh the bike properly

Possible mods in the future: (If I decide to hit the track)
stainless steel brake lines
aftermarket rear shock
lightweight sprockets and chain
DCR camshaft
 

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Cool looking bike.
The weight loss figures look interesting though. So far I could not count for more than 9.5kgs or about 20 lbs on mine - including the ixil headers without the cat.
I understand that swapping the battery can already bring some serius 4-5lbs weight difference, and the exhaust equals another in the same dimensions - but these are the biggest ones. Have you done a detailed list of weight coming off and going back to the bike?
Keep on modding. ;-)
 

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You could remove the engine. That’ll make it lighter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Amazing looking bike, well done..! Definitely invest in rear shock for starters, it will greatly improve handling.
Any more pictures are welcome :)
 

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That is a very sharp looking bike. You have made some very good design choices.

Cheers,

Snade
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys! Here are a couple more pics I took today. I'll try to get into more in-depth detail regarding weight reduction in a later post! Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
So my findings for weight reduction as follows:

I studied the 2016 - 2018 fairings extensively thinking, Why the **** are they engineered so well? My RC51 SP2 and CBR600RR had simple fairings that kind of just slipped into each other. The CBR500R’s fairings are built tough like a tank, interlocking with the inner fairing with tons of screws, snapping together like a well buttoned suit. Why does the gauge cluster also need its own plastic holder?

I then realized Honda knew that a lot of people who purchase this bike would be new to riding, and they will probably drop it quite often! So the design needed to be heavy duty.

Below is a list of things I actually measured, and some of these mods can be done for free! Just requires you to put in the time with your hack and slash tools.

Please note, only do this if you don’t care about resale value :)

1) Gauge Cluster Cowl -1.1 lb
Removing it allows you have a nice view of all the crap underneath, but I feel its more race bike like! But I also cleaned it up re-routing the front wires through the center under the triple tree. To mount back the gauge cluster, you need to hack the back of the gauge cluster cowl, press your gauge into the rubber grommets, and then strap it down with zap ties weaving through the front fairing stay. I found the front fairings easier to re-install. Downside also is it may compromise the crashability of the fairings. No rattles detected while riding high speeds either.

2) Inner Fairing modifications -0.75 lb
I took a garden scissor and did a hack job cutting away the bottom portions of the inner fairing. Made a trapezoid hole on each side. Also I removed the inner side covers that just served as running the oem turn signal wire. Downside is I think the bike was not as aerodynamic as before, but its probably all in my head! Does the CB500F have a lower top speed than the R? Probably not by much?

3) Front fender X fender brace -0.5 lb
I got rid of the metal X fender brace. My previous bikes never had this, and I did not notice any difference in handling.
Downside is now you must reach into the fender to use a nut to tighten down some of the screws.

4) Rider and Passenger seats, passenger strap, and reflectors -1.675 lb
I’m not a heavy guy, nor I’m never going to take passengers, so I drilled large holes in the bottom of the seat pans and took away most of the passenger areas where I could, enough to have structure so it doesn’t fly apart. Or crack under my weight. Also I removed the oem stock covers and replaced them with synthetic suede fabric materials from Luimoto. the material is lighter than marine grade vinyl by an ounce or 2. I also replaced the stock reflectors/metal brackets with a thin strip of silver reflective vinyl on each side of the front fender.

5) Removed trunk key lock/front bracket stay (under triple tree) -0.46 lb
I don’t keep anything important under my trunk, so just got rid of it and taped a carbon fibre sticker with a plastic under the hole. To secure the passenger seat I use 3M hook and loop stickers where the seat contacts the subframe. It’s very strong and hasn’t flown off at speeds over 150 km/h

5) Modified subframe -2.375 lb
Dreaming this idea for a while, I was hoping to drop like 10lb. Behind the rider, I hacked and slash one side of pipe completely, and a bit of the other side. I also drilled multiple speed holes for added HP. I left one side to hold onto where the passenger seat slides in and tail fairing bolts into, also where the fender eliminator bolts into so they are still rigid. It took me a couple hours a night to do this, and I was hoping for a big result…… Yes I was disappointed through all that effort. I probably could have cut a little more bar to get another .25lb, but I’m done with that.. Ah well. One more bonus trait. More trunk space! I could fit two bottles of water. Before I could only fit 1 bottle. Negatives: increased vibrations through your spine and hands if doing touring (more than 3 hours). When you get off the bike, your whole bodies vibrating… But it was my first time doing an 8 hour ride on the bike. So I’m not 100% sure how much it actually contributed to vibrations. You also lose the built in grab handles and no passengers obviously.

5) Tool kit and instruction manual -1.25 lb
Don’t need this, I have a BCAA membership that comes tow me when I’m in trouble.

6) MWR air filter -0.7 lb
Just put this in 2 days ago. It removes the oem metal filter and black funnel, cut off a square plastic, and 2 screws. I was surprised with the weight savings. the MWR filter weighs only 2 ounces.

7) Lithium ion battery, battery strap, and 2 thin metal wire holders -5.84 lb
The stock battery weighs 7.5lb and the lithium ion battery is only 1.75lb.
Negatives, none! I even ditched the rubber battery strap. I added some soft closed cell foam tape under the rider seat so it makes contact with the battery while riding so it doesn’t move.

8) Motoholders aluminum front fairing stay for street -1lb
I was hoping for a bigger difference, well anyway, no refunds. I think I might be the only one in the world with this as it was made through a custom email inquiry lol. If you decide to go this route, tell them to not weld on the 4 wire tab holders. Don’t really need those. Only need the mounts for the headlight and front cowl. That will probably lighten yours up a little more than 1lb. I do like the bling though, and you can also get it in natural aluminum finish.
Negatives - expensive, came out to $200 US (includes shipping from Czech Republic) Also you gotta snip a bit of a tab behind the headlight.


Thats all the significant things I can think of for now… I’ll update as I do more stuff!

Below is a list of weights of different stock components for your reference only. Unfortunately I do not have some of the measurements compared to the related aftermarket parts on my bike as I wasn’t obsessed at the time.

stock rider seat 1.8 lb
stock battery 7.5 lb
stock rear set Left with shifter 1.5 lb
stock rear set Right 2 lb
stock rear set plastic carbon look covers 0.25 lb
stock chain guard 0.5 lb.
stock clip ons and bar ends pair 4 lb
stock levers 0.5 lb
stock mirrors 1.5 lb
reflectors and passenger strap 0.3 lb
stock license plate rear fender 3 lb
front fender brace 0.5 lb
x2 stock passenger pegs 1.75 lb
x4 stock signals 1 lb
stock slipon 9.25 lb
stock front fairing stay 2.2lb
stock LED headlights 2016 model 3.68 lb

Happy modding!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oyabun, how much weight savings did you get from the ixil header compared to the stock header/cat? Its my next mod so Im really curious to know.

Cool looking bike.
The weight loss figures look interesting though. So far I could not count for more than 9.5kgs or about 20 lbs on mine - including the ixil headers without the cat.
I understand that swapping the battery can already bring some serius 4-5lbs weight difference, and the exhaust equals another in the same dimensions - but these are the biggest ones. Have you done a detailed list of weight coming off and going back to the bike?
Keep on modding. ;-)
 

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I had a 600RR too, a completely different machine with a different purpose for sure.

To be true, I don't have a 500RR, but a '16 500F and a '13 500X (had a '16 X for a while too, but wanted a cheaper bike which I'm not afraid of hacking up :)
As I'm using it as a touring bike with luggage and sometimes a passenger, and also have tons of accessories too (like aux lights and grip heating) my possibilities are somewhat more limited obviously.

I've created a list of modifications and made a so called ABC analysis to rank options based on cost per grams removed. :) Yeah, I know I'm a freak.
Interestingly using steel braided brake lines, titanium banjo and brake bolts are quite cost effective in that regard too.
Also done the Airbox mod, a similar homebrew filter that the MWR, Lipo bettery, exhaust, etc.

Oyabun, how much weight savings did you get from the ixil header compared to the stock header/cat? Its my next mod so Im really curious to know.
Good to see an another freak. :) I even have a long neglected topic here with CBR and CB500F parts weight measurements.
I've measured the oem headers with the cat as 3650gr, and the iXil headers as 2175 gr. So the difference is roughly 1500gr, or 3,3 lbs in 'ye old money.

Back when I was racing apart from doing the obvious things like exhaust and stuff, we usually concentrated on lightening parts in the following order - concentrating on things further from CoG first:
- Anything what is rotating - e.g. the wheels on the X could be replaced by some lighter version, machined out rear brake disc (read here: https://i1.wp.com/www.yamahar3racing.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_4211.jpg , etc.)
- Any unsprung weight - suspension parts are typical to this. The oem fork lowers are surprisingly light, damping rods could be a bit lighter tho. The oem rear shock is made out of stamped steel and weights in at 2800gr - so with a billet ally shock you can drop some weight in the range of 200-450gr see below.
- Anything far from CoG - just like you did with the head fairing and instrument cluster stay and subframe.
- Anything else like bolts, fairings etc.


Following up on your future plans.
I might reconsider the Ohlins option. Ohlins only does some cheapo spring and preload kit for the front, essentially does not changing anything to the damping which is the Achilles heel of the front forks IMHO. A Matris cartridge kit would lower overall fork internals weight and have proper 3 way adjustability with correct shim valve damping. Also at the rear Ohlins only have a relatively simple shock (preload and single damping adjustment) while for almost the same price you can get a Wilbers rear shock, with external reservoir, separate High and low speed compression, rebound and preload adjustability. They also have an option for up to +10mm shock, which is really helpful at the track to tweak geometry a bit, and adding more lean angle.

The steering stem and lower triple is a bit porky too, it is 1800 grs- compared to my YZ450 same unit is over 400gr heavier.

Front axle could also be a good candidate for a weight loss. It is a 17mm dia solid axle from material looking like some scrap steel, weighting 470gr. Same part on my YZ is a 20mm hollow axle weigting only 280gr.

I'm still thinking of a few other mods like a lighter alloy rear swingarm, lighter rear axle and a few more bits.

Oh, and I might have something else what could be interesting for you:
https://www.cbr500riders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=68114&thumb=1

BTW where are you located?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Very cool, thank you for all the feedback. I'll definitely look into the Wilbers rear shock. Decent price as well!
I'm located in Vancouver, BC, Canada! I'm a freak at a novice level, but I think you are in a different league! ;) I haven't even touched the inside of the engine yet. What did you do to the camshaft and block? Looks like something that will give you a great boost in performance :wink: Of course I'm interested.
Yes I've been looking into parts that are lighter around the wheels. Just hard to find the machined out rotor look at 240mm size straight from a factory. Easy to find for 220mm though. :( Easiest for me to do lighter sprockets however just waiting for the oem one to wear out. Those are all some good ideas on where to lose weight. somehow will need to source those parts in the same dimensions as the CBR's which may be hard, but I'll do some research and report back if I find anything.



I had a 600RR too, a completely different machine with a different purpose for sure.

To be true, I don't have a 500RR, but a '16 500F and a '13 500X (had a '16 X for a while too, but wanted a cheaper bike which I'm not afraid of hacking up :)
As I'm using it as a touring bike with luggage and sometimes a passenger, and also have tons of accessories too (like aux lights and grip heating) my possibilities are somewhat more limited obviously.

I've created a list of modifications and made a so called ABC analysis to rank options based on cost per grams removed. :) Yeah, I know I'm a freak.
Interestingly using steel braided brake lines, titanium banjo and brake bolts are quite cost effective in that regard too.
Also done the Airbox mod, a similar homebrew filter that the MWR, Lipo bettery, exhaust, etc.



Good to see an another freak. :) I even have a long neglected topic here with CBR and CB500F parts weight measurements.
I've measured the oem headers with the cat as 3650gr, and the iXil headers as 2175 gr. So the difference is roughly 1500gr, or 3,3 lbs in 'ye old money.

Back when I was racing apart from doing the obvious things like exhaust and stuff, we usually concentrated on lightening parts in the following order - concentrating on things further from CoG first:
- Anything what is rotating - e.g. the wheels on the X could be replaced by some lighter version, machined out rear brake disc (read here: https://i1.wp.com/www.yamahar3racing.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_4211.jpg , etc.)
- Any unsprung weight - suspension parts are typical to this. The oem fork lowers are surprisingly light, damping rods could be a bit lighter tho. The oem rear shock is made out of stamped steel and weights in at 2800gr - so with a billet ally shock you can drop some weight in the range of 200-450gr see below.
- Anything far from CoG - just like you did with the head fairing and instrument cluster stay and subframe.
- Anything else like bolts, fairings etc.


Following up on your future plans.
I might reconsider the Ohlins option. Ohlins only does some cheapo spring and preload kit for the front, essentially does not changing anything to the damping which is the Achilles heel of the front forks IMHO. A Matris cartridge kit would lower overall fork internals weight and have proper 3 way adjustability with correct shim valve damping. Also at the rear Ohlins only have a relatively simple shock (preload and single damping adjustment) while for almost the same price you can get a Wilbers rear shock, with external reservoir, separate High and low speed compression, rebound and preload adjustability. They also have an option for up to +10mm shock, which is really helpful at the track to tweak geometry a bit, and adding more lean angle.

The steering stem and lower triple is a bit porky too, it is 1800 grs- compared to my YZ450 same unit is over 400gr heavier.

Front axle could also be a good candidate for a weight loss. It is a 17mm dia solid axle from material looking like some scrap steel, weighting 470gr. Same part on my YZ is a 20mm hollow axle weigting only 280gr.

I'm still thinking of a few other mods like a lighter alloy rear swingarm, lighter rear axle and a few more bits.

Oh, and I might have something else what could be interesting for you:
https://www.cbr500riders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=68114&thumb=1

BTW where are you located?
 

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Looks amazing! But I don't dig those mirrors. You should set your bike up with the ZX10 ones. One of the best looking mods you can do to it IMHO.
 

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Very cool, thank you for all the feedback. I'll definitely look into the Wilbers rear shock. Decent price as well!
I'm located in Vancouver, BC, Canada! I'm a freak at a novice level, but I think you are in a different league! ;) I haven't even touched the inside of the engine yet. What did you do to the camshaft and block? Looks like something that will give you a great boost in performance :wink: Of course I'm interested.
Yes I've been looking into parts that are lighter around the wheels. Just hard to find the machined out rotor look at 240mm size straight from a factory. Easy to find for 220mm though. :( Easiest for me to do lighter sprockets however just waiting for the oem one to wear out. Those are all some good ideas on where to lose weight. somehow will need to source those parts in the same dimensions as the CBR's which may be hard, but I'll do some research and report back if I find anything.
I'd also look into possibility of installing wheels from other, higher specced bikes - as I find aftermarket wheels like Marchesini beautiful, but prohibitively expensive. I'd look around CBR600RR wheels, possibly CBR900rr (I like their thin multispoke design, but stay away from the 16" front wheels) but get prepared for some knuckle skinning as axle diameters and wheel spiders have to be tackled. Good news is, that the 600RR has had the lightest wheels of the competition back then, and they have 320mm disk upgrade options.

edit: Just looked up.
CBR600RR oem front wheel (with bearings and internal spacer, no axle, or external spacers, brake disc or ABS ring) 3930grams
CBR600RR oem rear wheel (with bearings and internal spacer, no cush drive, sprocket, axle, external spacers, brake disc or ABS ring) 5440grams
Same as above but forged made by Marchesini
Front: 3100gr
Rear: 4000gr

As reference CBR500R front wheel: 4900gr
I have no clear measurement of the rear wheel, but based on total weight my guess would be around 7kg


On the picture there is a complete top end engine upgrade. Stage 1.5 head (machined head surface, casting marks cleaned, flowed and machined ports, streamlined valve guides, renewed valves and new valve shims for correct valve lash), a set of reground cams (modified lift, duration, timing and overlap - aimed at very strong mid range and a healthy boost in top end instead of the DCR cams which are mainly top end). Installs easier than a DCR cam as valve clearance is pre-set and clocked.

Needs an aftermarket fuel controller or an ECU flash - with your modifications (MWR filter, new exhaust) it can deliver about 60Hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wow I thought the CBR500R rims would be lighter, did not know they were so heavy... So how come your engine upgrade is sitting in a box? :D Have you fitted them onto your bikes yet?
 
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