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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some friendly advice on how to change the front brake pads on a 2013 CBR500R NON-ABS. After having my new Pilot Road 4 tires installed last weekend they mentioned my front brakes had seen better days.

1. Gather the supplies.
Brake pads
12mm socket ratchet
8mm socket ratchet
Tooth brush (optional)
Mild soapy water (optional)
Rubber gloves (optional)



2. Loosen the pin with the 8mm socket first. It's easier now. Next, with the 12mm socket remove the caliper assembly from the fork by unscrewing the two bolts and sliding it back off the rotor. Use the gloves throughout to keep the large amounts of brake dust off your hands. You'll see.



3. Have a box or something to set the caliper assembly on. You do not want to have it hanging off the bike unsupported which could weaken where the brake line attaches.



4. Remove the pin and then remove the old brake pads. Make sure the ring stopper is still on the end of the pin when you remove it and replace it. One of the springs presses down on the brake/pin side but not enough to make it difficult to remove the pin. Pull it out and compare the old brakes with the new. Mine have maybe 40% left.



4. Clean the pistons, springs and the general inside with the toothbrush and mild soapy water (Optional). You need to press the pistons back into their cylinders and it is better for them to be clean. Warning: Before you start pushing the pistons back in, you might want to watch the brake fluid level on the master cylinder. This is the square box on your right handle bar. By pushing the pistons in you are pushing brake fluid into this box and there is a possibility of it overflowing. Mine didn't. If this was a car I would use a new, clean turkey baster to suck some fluid up first and then after the new brakes were on I would place the fluid back in. I used my fingers to slowly press the pistons back in.




This is the front brake fluid level only. Not the rear brake fluid level.

5. Insert the new pads and place the pin back in. There must be a big enough gap between the two new pads so the rotor will fit between them. Place the caliper assembly back on the rotor and screw in the two 12mm bolts first. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft). Next tighten the 8mm pin to 17 Nm (13 lb-ft). My rotor was still fine and after changing my oil and testing everything out the bike and brakes worked as expected. The instructions with the brakes said you should have your brake fluid checked every two years.

This whole process takes about 15 minutes.


Manual doesn't take the caliper off to replace the pads. Says to push the pistons in before removing the pads and just remove the pad pin and stopper ring to release the pads. Make sure the pad spring is in the right position, install the new pads making sure they are in the retainer properly, and re-install the pad pin using silicone grease on the stopper ring (replace ring it if it's not in good condition). Operate the brakes to seat pistons against the pad.

Recommendation is to install new mounting bolts if you take the caliper off - do not reuse the old bolts. I did reuse my original bolts.
 

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Good write-up. Thanks.
At 40% left, you could have used them another year.
What pads did you buy (brand and type) ?

thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I agree, I had enough for the end of the year at least. Oh well.

So the brake pads were a nightmare. I went to the local Honda Motorsports dealer on Monday. I said I needed new front brake pads and synthetic oil. The computer said they had pads but no, they couldn't find them in the store. So he orders me some. Now this store is well out of my way and the dude said I'm on his way home so he would drop them off or meet me near home. They only had 1 quart of synthetic oil which I didn't buy. So Friday rolls around and no word from the store (not surprised at this point). I go up there and my pads are in. He gives me these:



Happy I walk out of the store. I looked at my pads on bike pretty good the last weekend and these are not adding up. They were not big enough and as I'm driving away I decide to go back. I do some quick internet searches and with those type of pads you're supposed to order two sets. Which makes sense. I was pissed. If he had sold those to someone who had not replaced brakes before and they get put on a bike wrong he could kill someone maybe. I find the supervisor and explain this and that I just want the Honda OEM pads. He says he'll get them no worries. Sure enough he found them. Next time I'll order online. That wasted 4+ hours of my life for brake pads. I compared them with the old pads and they were an exact match with zero wear. Below is the bag they came in with the part number. I would think any Honda dealer would have them or can order them.



Did a quick amazon search of Honda Part 06455-MGS-D31 and found them.
 

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Brake pads from EBC listed in order--

Standard, Touring, Superbike
Fronts:
FA196, FA196V, FA196HH
Rears:
FA140, FA140V, FA140HH
 

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For some reason I am not seeing the photos (broken links) in the first post. I DO see the photos in the follow-up post by AZChaos.
 

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Thanks again.
Much improved with the photos.

I usually buy on-line. Better to live with my mistakes than the local shops'
But sometimes, life is better buying locally.

Ride Safely.
 

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If you know the torque for the bolts let me know and I'll edit them in.
Looked up the torque values in the service manual:
Mounting bolts - 30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
Brake pad pin - 17 Nm (13 lb-ft)

Manual doesn't take the caliper off to replace the pads. Says to push the pistons in before removing the pads and just remove the pad pin and stopper ring to release the pads. Make sure the pad spring is in the right position, install the new pads making sure they are in the retainer properly, and re-install the pad pin using silicone grease on the stopper ring (replace ring it if it's not in good condition). Operate the brakes to seat pistons against the pad.

Recommendation is to install new mounting bolts if you take the caliper off - do not reuse the old bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Follow-Up: I went back to the local Authorized Honda Dealership to order the two bolts. The guy asked me why and I explained that the manual says to replace them when removed. The service tech told me they never do that on the brake changes to the bikes coming in. He told me that they use the same bolts but apply a few drops of Blue Loctite to the end of the bolt first. If you do this method, the color IS important, there are different strengths.

It's up to you.
 

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Installed front and rear pads

Thanks so much for taking time to post these instructions.

I completed both front and rear today. There is a metal backing on the pad the piston presses upon on the front. Not mentioned in these instructions, but don't forget to re use it. It's possible that it comes with the new pad, but I got an open box (returned item) from where I bought my EBC pads. The pads just fell out when I opened their cardboard shipping box. The display packaging was in there too but they did not bother to put the returned pad in it.

When you do this the first time, it seems a bit odd that there is really nothing other than the rotor and assembly to hold the front of the pads in place. like the clip on the back. You may scratch your head on this, like you've lost something. But no, it works.

My rear brake had been sticking. I have an adjustable rear set installed on the bike. I noticed that unless I manually raised my brake pedal, the rear brake piston stays closed. I may be missing a spring on my pedal. Anyway, its better since I removed the calipers and cleaned the unit. I highly recommend the brake cleaning spray fluid from Cycle Gear. Cheap, works great and evaporates without leaving a residue. Cleans off the brake dust.

There is no instruction on the rear brake. Once you do the front, the rear is pretty easy. The caliper bolts are different sizes. But there are no hidden parts. It's similar to the front.
 

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Good write-up but a couple of points: Photos of the caliper and the mentioned pin with its location would have been helpful; pushing the piston in slowly won't affect the brake fluid level, it's the same amount as it was before, if you haven't topped it up, which I never do. I either leave it alone or replace the fluid.
Why anyone would use new bolts is beyond me! :)
 

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Those round ones are the right ones... if you have a 1970s CB500 :grin:



As for the pin to remove the pads, I think #6 and #10 in this image are what you need.

 

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Thanks for posting this. Bought myself a 2013 CBR500RA about a month ago and this kind of info will be very handy to have.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to remove the pin that holds the brake pads when I tried this. The pin reaches a point where you would assume it will come out but it just continues to spin and not move out any further. I'm guessing it has something to do with the ring stopper you mentioned. Has anyone come across this before and is there perhaps a noob-friendly trick the getting that pin out?

Cheers,
Leigh.
 

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Leigh,
I think the threads are shorter than the length of that pin and all that you need to do is to pull the pin out after you unscrew it as much as you did.
See part #6 on above drawing.

Ride safely,
 

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Leigh,
I think the threads are shorter than the length of that pin and all that you need to do is to pull the pin out after you unscrew it as much as you did.
See part #6 on above drawing.

Ride safely,
Thanks for that, ExTex! I'll give it a whirl.

EDIT: That worked a like a charm, ExTex. Just needed to be pulled with more force. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Good write-up but a couple of points: Photos of the caliper and the mentioned pin with its location would have been helpful; pushing the piston in slowly won't affect the brake fluid level, it's the same amount as it was before, if you haven't topped it up, which I never do. I either leave it alone or replace the fluid.
Why anyone would use new bolts is beyond me! :)
No kidding! I was thinking the same. I've never heard of anyone that replaces perfectly good bolts. That's just a shady way for Honda to make more money on overpriced bolts. The only time I replace bolts is if: 1) I lose them, or 2) the heads are rounded off too much that it's getting to the point where I risk not being able to twist it off anymore. Just replaced a few on my zx6r because of that reason.
 
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