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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I've been loving my CB500F since I got it in June this year but I've always thought it was a little on the quiet side. To the point that I worry I wouldn't be heard on the Highway. So I decided to get a slip on and settled on an Akropovic (S-H5SO4-HRC/1). The exaust looked great and fitted easily but still not quite loud enough for me and while the "engine note" and "bubble" was enhanced IMHO, it still needed something. So I looked to find out what I could do on the all knowing internet and found tons of videos and info on how to take the "DB killer" out of the exhaust but none to match the model I had. So I thought I'd have a go and document how I did it here.
Tools:
  • Cordless drill
  • 5.0 & 5.5 mm drill bits
  • Centre punch
  • Hammer
  • Pop rivet tool
  • Large flange 4.8mm diameter pop rivets ( to match what is there. I got them easily at my local hardware store)
  • Soft towel or pillow (to rest the exhaust on whilst working)
  • A dremel or file
  • Allen/hex keys or spanner
  • Vise grips or pliiers with a rag to stop scrtches
  • Hot air gun (possibly)

Steps:
1. Clear the work bench and lay the unfitted exhaust on the towel or pillow. This is just to protect the exhaust from dings and scratches (see picture of mine on an old pillow.)
2. Carefully drill out ( slow speed!) each of the rivets on the outlet end of the exhaust only (See the picture with my fingers pointing to the rivets) using the 5.0mm bit, starting with the inner ones (these have the model plate attached to them). For those rivets that the heads don't come off, up size the dirll bit to the 5.5mm and using a slow speed and holding the exhaust firmly, drill the remaining rivets until the heads pop off. Make sure you are careful to protect the metal strap that goes around the exhaiust as you will need this when you put this back together. Do not push too hard here as you with push the drill into places that you don't want and ruin your nice exhaust. Let the drill do the work.
3. Using the Centre punch and the hammer, carefully tap each of the rivet "stems" into the body of the exhaust so they are clear of the carbon fibre. Make sure all of the rivets are down as the end cap won't come off until every one is pushed down.
4. Wiggle the end cap carefully and woprk your way around the end of the end cap and pull to take it off. If its is not coming or stuck at one point, you probably still have a bit of rivet to kock into the exhaust. Put the end can a side for when you re-assemble.
5. With the end cap off, you can see the steel end of the exhaust and the spot welded screw that holds the db killer in on the inner side of the exhaust. Using a file or the dremel, grind back the spot weld. The weld is pretty lame so you maybe just able to break it with a spanner or hex/Allen key but a bit of a grind makes it easy. Remove the screw from the exhaust. See the picture below with the DB killer removed and the little screw being discussed here.
6. Using the vise grips or pliers with a rag, grip the inner edge of the db killer (where the exhaust comes out) and firmly pull. It is pressed fit and tight so you may need a bit of WD40 to lubricate the outer edges of the DBK. If it still won't come out after a good bit of wiggling and giving the WD40 time to penetrate, you may need to apply a little heat using a hot air gun just on the steel parts and evenly around the exhaust. Do not over heat. After all of this the DB killer should slip out. (See pictures of it removed)
7. Now the re-assembly of the end cap. Carefully refit the end cap being sure to evently insert the end cvap UNDER the exhaust outer skin and to get the centre hole over the steel end of the exhaust. It's a bit fiddly but can be done without tools.
8. With cap fully snug and in position on the exhaust barrel, lay the metal strap over the end of the exhaust and check EVERY hole lines up and finishes on the "back wheel" side ( the side that had the name plate attached) of the exhaust barrel. I made an error here and had to drill out two of the new rivets after I realised I had miss-aligned the metal strap and start again.
9. Pop rivet the strap back on starting on the "outer side" (opposite side to the "Back wheel" and name plate side) of the exhaust and work you way around to the ends on the "Back wheel" side. If you want to put the name plate back on sure you remember to pop rivet it on the last two rivets.
10. Fit the exhaust to you bike and lasten for the much bigger note! The pictures below are all taken after I performed the above.

Some Notes:
1. Don't try this if any of the above steps are beyond your skill level. Get a handy Friend/relative to help.
2. Read these steps over a number of time before you try this
3. You will have a few bits of old rivet floating around inside your exhaust after this process. They are stuck in there permanently (and safely) but cannot get into the engine or escape unless you want to put a hole in your exchaust to get them out. I have left them in and they don't rattle or cause any problems. If this is concern, don't do this mod.
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That's a lovely bike. And possibly one of the best exhausts money can buy. And a great tutorial. Could you not drill a hole in the end cap to allow the cap screw to come through, so you could fit the baffle in and out as you wish. I guess that would be a mod when the end cap was off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's a lovely bike. And possibly one of the best exhausts money can buy. And a great tutorial. Could you not drill a hole in the end cap to allow the cap screw to come through, so you could fit the baffle in and out as you wish. I guess that would be a mod when the end cap was off.
Thanks Adios. The fixing screw is on the "back wheel" side of the exhause so you have to take the exhaust off any way to get at the screw. I'm not expecting to slip it in and out. Unless I get a tiicket!
 
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