My symptoms were exactly the same then evolved to not starting even with clutch in. It most probably be the neutral switch as that is what RESOLVED my issue. It's only a 20$ partI now have exactly the same symptoms. It will crank but won't fire-up/start until the kickstand goes up. Initially, pulling the clutch (while cranking) was enough to start up, but that workaround stopped working.
I've discovered another way that works (with kickstand down); gently press down the gearshift lever (while cranking) and it starts up. This leads me believe it is most likely the Neutral switch, even though the Neutral light works correctly (bizarre).
I have ruled out the battery and thoroughly tested the kickstand switch. Using a fully charged car battery made no difference.
Oyabun PaşaMurat Bey,
The explanation might be a bit more nerdy electronics than you'd ask for ? The ECU does not measure resistance or conductance, but voltage levels. Above a certain threshold it is considered True or High, below another it is Low or False signal.
The voltage is usually generated by either a pull up (to +5V) or pull down ( to signal ground) resistor in case of switches, and usually by a voltage divider in case of sensors having a variable resistance.
I don't know the exact circuit of the 500ECU, but it might easily happen that the Neutral light is a direct electrical result of a comparator circuit before the microcontroller - thus it lights up while the ECU still cannot determine the true state of the input probably because of the unstable signal or lower than standard battery voltage reference or the combination of the two.
This is highly speculative but a probable cause.
I don't think that makes sense. The owner's manual says that you should be able to start the engine with the kickstand down if the gearbox is in neutral.The bike is NOT supposed to start with the kickstand down, clutch out, in neutral.
By my observations, the ecu's two feedback circuits (labeled SSTAND and NLSW on the wiring diagram) both look for a ground to be "enabled". To start, both circuits have to see ground. To run (or actually keep running), it only needs to see one of either.
I believe the "defect" is actually that these bikes would start on the sidestand, in neutral, clutch out, cause they were making false ground contact in the kickstand switch. As the switch "breaks in", or its position shifts internally through use, it makes contact differently.
Also, the bike WILL start in this scenerio (kick down, clutch out, in neutral) but take a long crank because so long as your pressing the starter switch it's looking for both grounds, but as soon as you let go, it only is looking for either one of the grounds. So if the engine's momentum keeps it moving after you let go of the button, AND the fuel mixture in the chamber is correct, IT WILL START. But when it starts this way it feels like it takes a long crank with intermittent success.
The neutral safety switch going bad itself after some wear is a whole separate failure that can cause a similar issue.
I can post the simplified diagram, and the logic table later when I get home, but I believe this is correct. Please check my math, but as someone who struggled with this for the last 8 months, I feel confident.
Emphasis mine. In addition to that, I think the vast majority of 500 owners have been able to start the bike with the side-stand down in neutral without issues.TFM said:Shift the transmission to Neutral (N indicator comes on). Alternatively, pull in the clutch lever to start your motorcycle with the transmission in gear so long as the side stand is raised.