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So, I have a question... The owners manual says to use 10w-30, however where I live it gets to over 100 degrees Fahrenheit regularly. Will it be of any benefit to run 10w-40? Will it harm the bike since the only recommended weight is 10w-30?
 

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In higher temps like where you are the 10-40 will be fine :) The specs refer to ambient temperature, and Im pretty sure the manual will have a nice little table which shows 10-40 to be appropriate (its the same on the 250R).

Dave
 

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The manual states 10-30 for all conditions. Engine internal temps on a low-revving, low compression, lean-burning, water-cooled engine like this one are unlikely to vary all that much, even in extremely hot outside temps. I generally wouldn't hesitate to use 10-40 (I actually have 3 quarts of Mobil 1 in that grade lying around from a previous bike and I fully intend to use it). You may see some decrease in fuel efficiency.

The engine specs are tested in a variety of conditions from very cold to very hot. There is no need to second-guess them. Hot climates are an important enough motorcycle market that all vehicles are tested for them.
 
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What about 5w-40?

I heard good reviews on Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic oil. Would this be safe to use in our bikes?
 

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My dealer has put in 10w40 here in UK at annual service, whilst its not wrong it does say in both owners and service manual, 10w30.
Here in Uk might mean harder starting when is real cold as be thicker then to I think!

Be a good choice in hotter places 10w40
 

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I heard good reviews on Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic oil. Would this be safe to use in our bikes?
What do the reviews say about Rotella that they don't say about other oils? What does it do that other oils don't? Better mileage? Less engine wear? Tastes great? Less filling? :grin

What would you expect to gain by using it rather than, say, Honda's recommendation of 10w-30?

FYI, Shell recommends against using Rotella T6 in vehicles with catalytic converters because of the levels of zinc and phosphorus, which aren't good for cats.
 

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What would you expect to gain by using it rather than, say, Honda's recommendation of 10w-30?

FYI, Shell recommends against using Rotella T6 in vehicles with catalytic converters because of the levels of zinc and phosphorus, which aren't good for cats.
Lower price vs. other oils and improved fuel economy (so they say) are two benefits that got me interested in Rotella T6 5w-40. Also the 40 weight has me thinking the oil would perform better on long distance highway cruising when I'm at 70-80mph and 6-7k rpm for long periods.

Thanks for pointing out the issue with the cat converter--I wasn't aware of that.
 

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I was thinking of switching to that rotella t6 5w-40 synthetic at around 3k miles.
 
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FYI, Shell recommends against using Rotella T6 in vehicles with catalytic converters because of the levels of zinc and phosphorus, which aren't good for cats.
Source? Their literature says the opposite: http://s02.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/business/rotella/downloads/pdf/rotella-t6-brochure.pdf

Keep in mind that "Rotella" in the US is a multi-use oil. Outside the US that trademark is used for diesel-only oils that are not recommended for any gasoline engine. You may have gotten some information from elsewhere.
 

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Lower price vs. other oils and improved fuel economy (so they say) are two benefits that got me interested in Rotella T6 5w-40. Also the 40 weight has me thinking the oil would perform better on long distance highway cruising when I'm at 70-80mph and 6-7k rpm for long periods.

Thanks for pointing out the issue with the cat converter--I wasn't aware of that.
The primary benefits are:

- Cold starting (5w vs. 10w)
- Shear strength, which is the major issue causing breakdown in motorcycle oils.
- Cheaper than anything even remotely as good. If you look around you can get a gallon of the stuff for less than a quart of the brand-name racing synthetics.

It's not going to perform better because it's a 40 oil at temperature. In fact, will flow marginally less well. Not enough that I'd be concerned though, our engines don't run hot even if you're maxing them out.

The primary reason Honda is moving to 10w-30 is because it lasts longer than 10w-40, which degrades more quickly due to shear. That's part of the reason our bike can have such a long service interval. With 10w-40 you're going to want to change the oil more frequently. The 10w-40 contains a lot more viscosity modifiers, which are the part of the oil that breaks down due to shearing.
 
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Once again, a bit out of date in that there are now 10w-30 motorcycle oils that did not exist when it was written.

All About Motor Oil

Personally I've been using plain old Rotella T (15w-40) in my older bikes and would not hesitate to use it in a newer engine either. Where I live, cold weather oil flow is a non-issue.
 

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Source? Their literature says the opposite: http://s02.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/business/rotella/downloads/pdf/rotella-t6-brochure.pdf

Keep in mind that "Rotella" in the US is a multi-use oil. Outside the US that trademark is used for diesel-only oils that are not recommended for any gasoline engine. You may have gotten some information from elsewhere.
The information I got is from two years ago when I was looking at T6. Apparently they've changed their formulation since then.
 

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The primary benefits are:

- Cold starting (5w vs. 10w)
- Shear strength, which is the major issue causing breakdown in motorcycle oils.
- Cheaper than anything even remotely as good. If you look around you can get a gallon of the stuff for less than a quart of the brand-name racing synthetics.

It's not going to perform better because it's a 40 oil at temperature. In fact, will flow marginally less well. Not enough that I'd be concerned though, our engines don't run hot even if you're maxing them out.

The primary reason Honda is moving to 10w-30 is because it lasts longer than 10w-40, which degrades more quickly due to shear. That's part of the reason our bike can have such a long service interval. With 10w-40 you're going to want to change the oil more frequently. The 10w-40 contains a lot more viscosity modifiers, which are the part of the oil that breaks down due to shearing.
Me thinks I will change oil and filter myself then before winter, might as well as at moment I do plan to keep it long term.

My dealer's reply was 10w40 is what Honda are happy with etc and is within the jato/SAE guide lines. I am sure it but still doesn't help with fact both manuals state 10w30 and not anything else im sure even the scale diagram they used to have is gone and its 10w30 now for all climates!
 
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