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Hate to sound like a curmudgeon, but having read through umpteen threads on oils, the best filters, (you've probably seen the Calsci filter thread. Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters), etc. I had an epiphany: I'm going to use a good quality 10w30 oil, a Honda filter and change my oil every five thousand miles (easy to remember) or once per year, which ever comes first.

My logic: Honda builds a solid motor; today's oils - Dino and synthetic- seem to get better and better and meet Honda specs; I'm not racing in the Paris-Dakar and really don't push my X hard; I have more important things to worry about.

I picked up a couple of gallons of Rotella Triple T 10-30 on sale and ordered three filters from Amazon. I should be set 'til 2016.

(I did swap a magnetic drain plug for the OEM which has yielded interesting results on other vehicles I own.)

I can assure you I will not be sending my used oil to any labs for analysis.

Do what you need to be happy but I'll spend that time on other issues or out riding.

Cheers
 

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In a perfect world I would be running a Fleetguard Filter and Cat (Hastings Deerings) finest oil. But it's not like that. So I use Penrite Fully Synth and Genuine filter!
 

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Don't know about these oil threads. I do know that Robert Edison Fulton once used mustard oil in his Douglass during his round the world ride. The bike survived just fine. I have no idea why I am posting this. Everyone have fun and stay safe.
 

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Don't know about these oil threads. I do know that Robert Edison Fulton once used mustard oil in his Douglass during his round the world ride. The bike survived just fine. I have no idea why I am posting this. Everyone have fun and stay safe.
If used vegetable oil is good enough for THE Charley Boorman, it certainly should be good enough for us!


(This should be required viewing for all Honda owners. That said, don't try this at home!)
 

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So pulling up to the old gas station and buying "no name" brand oil is not the way to go?
 

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So pulling up to the old gas station and buying "no name" brand oil is not the way to go?
If it's not energy conserving, is 10w-30 (realistically, 10w-40 and 5w-40 is fine) and meets API SG or better, you're probably good to go.

But as the article I posted points out, a key issue for motorcycles is shear strength. Auto oils will break down very quickly in motorcycles because they'll tend to shear when crushed in your transmission. Commercial grade truck oils (rated CI4+ or CJ4) handle this far better than service grade (car) oils and in fact better than a lot of "motorcycle" oils. Would I used an automotive 10w-30 or 10w-40 if I couldn't find anything else? Sure. I'd look for the ones that aren't energy-conserving and I wouldn't go thousands of miles before changing it, but I'd surely prefer auto oil to low/no oil.

There is a huge amount of BS in the oil business, mostly designed to separate you from your money.
 

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Hate to sound like a curmudgeon, but having read through umpteen threads on oils, the best filters, (you've probably seen the Calsci filter thread. Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters), etc. I had an epiphany: I'm going to use a good quality 10w30 oil, a Honda filter and change my oil every five thousand miles (easy to remember) or once per year, which ever comes first.

My logic: Honda builds a solid motor; today's oils - Dino and synthetic- seem to get better and better and meet Honda specs; I'm not racing in the Paris-Dakar and really don't push my X hard; I have more important things to worry about.

I picked up a couple of gallons of Rotella Triple T 10-30 on sale and ordered three filters from Amazon. I should be set 'til 2016.

(I did swap a magnetic drain plug for the OEM which has yielded interesting results on other vehicles I own.)

I can assure you I will not be sending my used oil to any labs for analysis.

Do what you need to be happy but I'll spend that time on other issues or out riding.

Cheers
If you've read the CalSci oil piece I linked above (not the filter article), essentially it comes down to the same thing. He goes through all the science, but in the end points out that these engines are well built, and like most engines made since 1980 the manufacturing tolerances are such that in normal use, they really can take quite a lot without resorting to any special materials. Personally I prefer the plain Rotella T (15w-40) or T6 synthetic (5w-40).

I go with the ones I use in part because I'm in a generally warm climate so don't mind the slightly higher viscosity even if it does cost me some tiny fraction of a mile per gallon; in part because I also run two older air-cooled bikes that punish the oil much more than our bikes do; and frankly because I'm just too lazy to keep three different types of oil around. Just got a few gallons of the plain Rotella T on sale for $12. Even with two older bikes that burn a bit of oil, that should last me quite a while.

I like the science because... well because I like science and engineering in general. And it does help me cut through the marketing BS.
 
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Amsoil 10w-30 with a couple squirts (1 oz/quart) of Militec 1. Used Amsoil on my car and never had a problem.
 

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Shell Rotella T is for me.
The 15w 40 seems fine in all weather, and I never ride below 32F anyway.
The price is great, allowing frequent and painless changes, and the clutch
and all moving parts will live happily ever after...

IR
 

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Rotella. Rotella. Rotella.

Been putting Rotella in everything I own for 6 years now and haven't been happier.
 

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Walkman
what brand and number oil filter from Amazon is correct for the Honda 500 engine?
Does the Fram 6017a replace the original?
Thanks
 

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Walkman
what brand and number oil filter from Amazon is correct for the Honda 500 engine?
Does the Fram 6017a replace the original?
Thanks
Rick,

Indeed. Bought a Fram and took it back.

I had a nice chat with the Fram Tech Rep and as I recall, he told me their bypass valve relief pressure was 12 psi +/- and the stock Honda was something like 7 psi. Granted that should only come into play when the filter is completely clogged, in the grand scheme of things, the little bit of doubt was enough to bring me back to earth and make me go with the stock filter. Too, the Fram may have more surface area than the Honda but with finer pore size and filtration, I'd think it would potentially increase work for the oil pump and potentially decrease oil flow to the motor. I would think more oil is far more important than somewhat cleaner oil any day. Not an automotive engineer but that was my logic to punt on the Fram.


As mentioned in an earlier post. I'm easy on my bike and certainly not participating in the Paris-Dakar, so if the stock filter is good enough for Honda's spec, I'm sticking with it.

(It's kind of funny to me how much we worry about this topic, but I'm betting if we asked most of the riders what kind of filter they have on their wife's Accord sitting in the driveway, it would be what ever was on sale at the autoparts store!)

Honda makes good motors; most motor oil today is high quality, exceeding minimum required SAE specs. For now, I'm sticking with a stock, Honda filter, a name brand 10w-30 (dino for the time being), and am splurging with a magnetic plug. (I found on other vehicles, the mag plugs give me a good visual on wear and anything really weird going on in the motor.)

I'll do one oil change once a year or 5000 miles, whichever comes first.
 

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I m using also honda syntethic oil. I think they call it g4 here. Pretty good stuff made in japan. 30 usd for 3 liters i paid and it made the bike flying.
Hey, Loserlazer. The Honda synthetic oil they sell in Chiangmai costs about 20 usd per liter/quart (=$60 per oil change!). Is the g4 oil you mentioned a Honda oil? If I could get good synthetic oil for 10 usd per liter I'd probably buy that instead of the non-synthetic oil I'm using now.

I live in northern Thailand, and when I did my 1000 km checkup at Big Wing Chiangmai last weekend, they said I could go with the standard (non-synthetic) 10W-30 for about 120 baht per liter (about $12 for 3 liters) or the synthetic for over 600 baht per liter (about $60 for 3 liters). I told the service agent I rarely ride faster than 120 kph and he said the regular oil would be fine, so I went with that. After the oil change, I talked with the mechanic and he said the synthetic is better for the engine, so I'm considering switching to synthetic, but it's so d*mned expensive. I read the article about engine oils someone posted a link to, and the guy said " Why on earth would you try to save $5 on each oil change to buy an oil that can't hold up in a motorcycle engine?" (referring to the difference in price between synthetic and non-synthetic oil). Only here in northern Thailand the difference is $50 per oil change, not $5!
 

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Hey, Loserlazer. The Honda synthetic oil they sell in Chiangmai costs about 20 usd per liter/quart (=$60 per oil change!). Is the g4 oil you mentioned a Honda oil? If I could get good synthetic oil for 10 usd per liter I'd probably buy that instead of the non-synthetic oil I'm using now.

I live in northern Thailand, and when I did my 1000 km checkup at Big Wing Chiangmai last weekend, they said I could go with the standard (non-synthetic) 10W-30 for about 120 baht per liter (about $12 for 3 liters) or the synthetic for over 600 baht per liter (about $60 for 3 liters). I told the service agent I rarely ride faster than 120 kph and he said the regular oil would be fine, so I went with that. After the oil change, I talked with the mechanic and he said the synthetic is better for the engine, so I'm considering switching to synthetic, but it's so d*mned expensive. I read the article about engine oils someone posted a link to, and the guy said " Why on earth would you try to save $5 on each oil change to buy an oil that can't hold up in a motorcycle engine?" (referring to the difference in price between synthetic and non-synthetic oil). Only here in northern Thailand the difference is $50 per oil change, not $5!
The synthetic is not really "better for the engine." It will usually last longer when subjected to the shearing forces of the motorcycle transmission. If you're doing regular oil changes, it shouldn't make most of a difference. Remember that the Cal Sciences guy said he does lots of fairly extreme use including long trips on which he doesn't want to have to change the oil.
 

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With the oils mentioned they are 4t or 6t .....what does the number then T stand for
Which oils are you talking about? I know some manufacturers use 2T and 4T to refer to two stroke and 4 stroke oils. Ours is always a four stroke oil.

Never heard of a 6T oil.
 
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