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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hi, i have been looking through forums etc and found that some people have needed to put a 100ohm resistor with the ignition switch? I have found it in a couple of forums for multiple bikes so could this be a thing?
 

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Hi, i have been looking through forums etc and found that some people have needed to put a 100ohm resistor with the ignition switch? I have found it in a couple of forums for multiple bikes so could this be a thing?
I can't see it. Do you have links to these forums/threads?

Can you provide a full and clear summary of your configuration right now: what's connected, what's bypassed etc?

You're in the UK: Did the donor bike have HISS and is it all intact and correctly wired/powered/connected etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Hi @Blackfin

If you search "100 ohm resistor in ignition" into Google it comes up with multiple forums

Ok so right now i have:
Complete engine,
UK loom (No switches or sensors, apart from sensor that fits to the Carb)
US ECM (no immobiliser)
Aftermarket key switch
Aftermarket push button
New battery
New plugs
New Solenoid

I have bypassed the:
Kill switch
Kickstand switch
Clutch switch
Bank angle sensor

As i bought the engine alone i don't have the lights, dash etc and so all of the connectors for those are not connected to anything. I don't yet have the fuel pump installed which does have a sensor so that might be something? But would that stop it from sparking?

Thanks
 

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Do you have 12V at the black/white-stripe wire going to both coils when the ignition is on and when you're cranking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Do you have 12V at the black/white-stripe wire going to both coils when the ignition is on and when you're cranking?
Hey, I have 12v when I connect positive to the black/white wire and negative to the frame for both. I get the 12v without needing to crank, just when the ignition is on. When I press the engine start button It drops and fluctuates around 9v.

When I put positive to black/white and negative to blue/yellow (on both coil wires) I don't get anything. Not sure if this even relevant but hey thought I'd try.

Have also found that I don't have power to the fuel pump connector

Thanks
 

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Okay, so we've established that the coils are getting power.

FWIW, the PCM allows current to flow in the coil by switching the B/Y lead to GND for a period of time known as "dwell" and then fires the spark by opening that line and halting current flow though the coil. I don't think the problem lies in the coils (they're pretty simple and robust parts) but you can test them by plugging them in and turning on the ignition; lay the plug on a piece of grounded engine metal and then momentarily grounding (just touch it for less than a second) the B/Y wire for that coil. When you break the connection you should see a spark.

I think what you'll probably find is that the PCM isn't switching the "low side" of the coils. How did you bypass the bank angle sensor? If you connected the leads together you might try opening them (remove jumper) and trying again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Okay, so we've established that the coils are getting power.

FWIW, the PCM allows current to flow in the coil by switching the B/Y lead to GND for a period of time known as "dwell" and then fires the spark by opening that line and halting current flow though the coil. I don't think the problem lies in the coils (they're pretty simple and robust parts) but you can test them by plugging them in and turning on the ignition; lay the plug on a piece of grounded engine metal and then momentarily grounding (just touch it for less than a second) the B/Y wire for that coil. When you break the connection you should see a spark.

I think what you'll probably find is that the PCM isn't switching the "low side" of the coils. How did you bypass the bank angle sensor? If you connected the leads together you might try opening them (remove jumper) and trying again.

Hey, I bypassed it by joining the wires but I think it might be an open circuit. I've tried it after opening them again and still nothing.
 

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Can you verify that the CKP (crank position sensor) is connected?
 

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At this point I'm thinking the lack of a dash ("combination module") may play a part in what you're seeing.
 

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I can confirm that the bike starts without the dash - no problem. Done it many times.
It will store a "serial communication failure" dtc in the ecu, but doesn't prevent from starting the engine.
 

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I'm still believing reading something along the lines that there is additional change in the wiring loom between the hiss and non-hiss bikes what should be pursued.
I haven't changed ecus between 500r models to this level, but i'm certain that when I've built my stock 600rr track bike with a non-hiss ecu, it needed an additional +12V connection to operate.
References here:
And here:

Be aware, the above is for the 600rr, so pinout is definitely different, but I believe that the logic should be the same.
I have no wiring diagram in front of me atm, but methodically comparing pinout of the hiss and non-hiss versions should get you sorted if this is the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
@Oyabun and @Blackfin You guys are awesome!! This totally makes sense. I went back to where i got the wiring diagram and the person that posted it is from the US soi am assuming it is for a us loom not the UK loom i have. I am going to give a honda dealer a call tomorrow to see if they can send me the diagram for a UK bike to confirm and compare the two pin layouts for the ECU. Hopefully the fix is as simple as providing power to another pin and can get moving on the project!
 

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I couldn't stop thinking about this, so went out to the shed and licked up my service manual.
My helm manual only contains no hiss wiring diagram, but I also have a Haynes manual what has Us and Europe versions.
The Ecu on the EU versions have two lines connecting to the Immo receiver Pin10 (yellow wire) and pin26 (pink).
The US ecu has pin10 not connected, but pin 26 is grounded.
So potentially not an additional +12V, but an additional ground what we're looking at.
Apart from the evap solenoid (pin8) what is not used on the pre-19 eu models but used in the states all other wiring is the same. I know that the evap valve is not blocking the engine operation as many have removed theirs with no adverse effects.
So grounding pin 26 is my best bet, if otherwise all is wired up properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Hi @Oyabun
So the diagram i have has nothing to pin10 confirming it is the US version.

So let me make sure ive got this right before i do it haha

The pink or yellow wire going into pin 26 on my current (EU) loom needs to be grounded rather than going to the Immo receiver because pin 26 on the US ECU that i am using goes to ground as they dont have an immobiliser.

If your able to, can you attach a scan/picture of the EU wiring loom?

Thanks for your help, fingers crossed this works!
 

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Correct, pin 26 (pink in the EU wiring loom) should be pulled to ground on the US ecu, as it uses no immo receiver.
Sorry I can't make a good enough photo of the otherwise not really great quality printout that it would be readable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
@Oyabun

Ok, so cut pink wire coming from ECU and ground it but still no spark or power to fuel pump. The pink wire went to a 4 pin plug that I didn't have connected to it and couldn't locate on the wiring diagram so makes sense that it is the Immobiliser.
 

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FWIW, the wiring diagram I have in front of me shows the "IMOV" pin of the ECU (pin 26) wire being black/white stripe. Are you sure you grounded the right pin?
 
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