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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Bought my bike (2014 CBR 500R) in Feb. I was on vacation and didnt ride it for 2 weeks. Tried to start last night but noticed battery was dead. Will get a tender and try to bring it back to life.

I was away for 3 weeks in April but didn't have any issues like this. Since April, I have DRLs and some LED lighting...wonder if there is a leak somewhere.

Any newbie advice appreciated
 

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A "new" battery should not "run down" in 2 weeks. You will want to check those added circuits.
You will need an amp meter (digital multimeter). Just disconnect the - battery lead and hook the meter in series.
There should be no current flow with the key off unless you have a theft alarm (HSSS)

Ride Safely,
 

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My new 2014 came with a bad battery.
 

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Thanks, Dave.

Did you have your battery replaced under warranty?

Also having DRLs and LEDs (12 DC), wonder if it voids any claim?

regards.
 

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Thanks, Dave.

Did you have your battery replaced under warranty?

Also having DRLs and LEDs (12 DC), wonder if it voids any claim?

regards.
Yes, mine started throwing codes the second time I went to start it. They determined the battery was bad and replaced it, no issues since then. However since my bicycle accident it's now been sitting almost 3 weeks, I think I will go try to start it tomorrow after work.
 

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Started right up, would have been pretty dissappointed if it didn't as its only been sitting 3 weeks.
 

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Having 2 bikes to look after I recently became interested in battery maintenance. Fortunately I already had a multimeter, but you also need info on what to look for to be able to gain useful info from it. Check out the following link which lets you interpret the voltages you read across the battery.

Motorcycle Battery Maintenace Guide - Motorcycle Maintenance Guide

Its also a good idea to test your bike's charging system by monitoring the voltage when you start the bike up and increase the revs to 3000-4000rpm. The alternator will only put charge into the battery if you are seeing more than 13.5V across the terminals. Ideally you should see 14+ volts when the engine is at speed. I recently tested the battery on my CBR and at rest I was getting 12.5V, meaning it was 80% charged, which then increased to just over 14V when the engine was on and running.

Do you do a lot of short journeys, particularly just before you left the bike sitting for 2 weeks? This can take a lot out of the battery if so. Also be aware you can only get away with a flat battery for a few times before it will get ruined and will no longer hold a charge. I also read that a battery will normally lose 1% of its charge per day, just through it discharging itself over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Having 2 bikes to look after I recently became interested in battery maintenance. Fortunately I already had a multimeter, but you also need info on what to look for to be able to gain useful info from it. Check out the following link which lets you interpret the voltages you read across the battery.

Motorcycle Battery Maintenace Guide - Motorcycle Maintenance Guide

Its also a good idea to test your bike's charging system by monitoring the voltage when you start the bike up and increase the revs to 3000-4000rpm. The alternator will only put charge into the battery if you are seeing more than 13.5V across the terminals. Ideally you should see 14+ volts when the engine is at speed. I recently tested the battery on my CBR and at rest I was getting 12.5V, meaning it was 80% charged, which then increased to just over 14V when the engine was on and running.

Do you do a lot of short journeys, particularly just before you left the bike sitting for 2 weeks? This can take a lot out of the battery if so. Also be aware you can only get away with a flat battery for a few times before it will get ruined and will no longer hold a charge. I also read that a battery will normally lose 1% of its charge per day, just through it discharging itself over time.
I have zero knowledge about how to use the multi meter, and for that matter, electronics. So will read your URL carefully.

I do do a lot many short trips. My work is a 10 min ride, if that and all my other rides are leasure doing chores etc. Once a while, I take a 30 mins ride around the mountain. The 2 weeks prior to me not using is, I was using the bike for short rides only.

I am waiting on my multimeter to arrive ...once it does, very interested in seeing the outcome. For now - when the battery went flat, I borrowed a tender and charged it over night. I couldnt say how long it took but it took >3-3.5 hours...tellsme that the battery if way down. Once it was fully charged, I disconnected the 2x accessories I had (DRLs and under seat LEDs) for 12 hours. I re-connected the accessories now and will see how the battery reacts. I have a feeling that in those 2 accessories I may have a leak.
 

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Electrical Engineer here.

If you want to check for any current leakage while the bike is off:
1) Disconnect your + battery cable.
2) Make sure the RED lead of your multimeter is in the Current reading position (should say uA, mA, A near the port).
3) Put the red lead on your battery terminal, and the black lead onto your battery cable. This will put the meter "in line" with your electrical system. The polarity really does not matter - you'd just get a negative reading if they're backwards.


Look for a draw greater than 50mA (.05A). If there is one, you probably have an issue. You can also test with various accessories plugged in to see what the draw is on your battery. Ideally it's absolutely 0, though that won't be the case since it has to keep time, etc.
 

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Do NOT try to start the engine with the multimeter connected.
The meter is not capable of passing that much current.

Yes, the clock function does draw some current as DJ mentions.

let us know the results.
 

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Testing a battery with a multimeter will not provide the most important information; what is the battery's reserve capacity? A battery can read lots of increments about 12.6v and a few seconds of starter engagement and the voltage drops to where the battery won't turn the starter motor. A battery load tester will show the state of battery reserve capacity and cost on E-bay is about $30. You'll need to know your battery's Cold Cranking Amps rating (CCA) and read the scale for that CCA on the load test meter.

My 2016 Suzuki DR-650 has its original Yuasa battery and reads well "into the green" under load. My CB-500F battery is equally healthy, but 1/4 as old. Both sit on Battery Tenders when the bike is not in use. I test all my vehicles' (5) batteries under load at least every 3 months. Not keen to have a dead battery somewhere far from home.

I'll welcome comments from those more electronically knowledgeable than I regarding my observations. .
 
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Testing a battery with a multimeter will not provide the most important information; what is the battery's reserve . I test all my vehicles' (5) batteries under load at least every 3 months. Not keen to have a dead battery somewhere far from home.I'll welcome comments from those more electronically knowledgeable than I regarding my observations. .
Ralph, I believe you are spot on. If the battery's not fully charged, and load tested, you won't be aware of it's potential.
But that 3 times a month thing is akin to me checking the alarm clock 3 times when I occasionally need a certain wake-up time.... Maybe we have too much time on your hands.. Or we could just blame it on our advanced maturity. :D
 

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A "new" battery should not "run down" in 2 weeks. You will want to check those added circuits.
You will need an amp meter (digital multimeter). Just disconnect the - battery lead and hook the meter in series.
There should be no current flow with the key off unless you have a theft alarm (HSSS)

Ride Safely,


Good post as allways from you.

Plasma1
 

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A battery tender is a bad choice to bring a dead battery back to fully charged.
Its designed to keep batteries from discharging while in non-use.

The current needed to bring a dead battery to life is not a battery tenders job.
You need a battery changer for that.
Battery tenders output are 2 amps and under.
Battery chargers are 8 amps and higher.
 

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If you buy the correct battery maintenance system like Optimate or Acumate and others I'm sure, it will cover all scenarios regarding your battery. Including dead batteries. Connect up to the battery with the lead supplied, make it accessible so you can just plug in the unit, and forget it. Mine sits by the rear brake master cylinder. Well if Honda supplies it surely it's ok.
A battery tender is a bad choice to bring a dead battery back to fully charged.
Its designed to keep batteries from discharging while in non-use.

The current needed to bring a dead battery to life is not a battery tenders job.
You need a battery changer for that.
Battery tenders output are 2 amps and under.
Battery chargers are 8 amps and higher.
 

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If you buy the correct battery maintenance system like Optimate or Acumate and others I'm sure, it will cover all scenarios regarding your battery.
Or an Oxford Oximiser, which is what I have. It selects the appropriate action based on the state of the battery. Recovery mode for dead batteries, bulk charge mode for flat batteries, maintain mode to keep them fully charged. Apart from things like solar trickle chargers, I would be surprised is any modern product does not work that way whether called a charger or a tender.
 

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Surprise!
My "tender", bought in 2019, only has an output of 2 amps.
And I'm sure many, many others have the same.
There are battery maintainers and battery chargers. And not all can do both jobs!
 
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