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Discussion Starter #1
I received a new set of aftermarket brake and cluth levers today with a 6-dial reach adjustment setting. I found the OEM clucth lever to be too far out which made me really stretch my hand out to reach it.


I installed the new levers easily, however I found the clucth freeplay very difficult to adjust with the new lever on setting 1 (lever as close to the left handle bar end as possible) I tried adjusting the free play to 20mm as per the owners manual but found the biting point on the clucth to be too close to the left handle bar end. As soon as i release the clucth lever a small amount, the bike starts to move. I do not like the clucth like this, I would prefer the clucth to engage and start moving the bike around 1/3 of the total clucth lever travel if possible.


Another thing i noticed which i'm unsure about is the adjustment near the engine casing, on the right hand side of the bike if you're sitting on it. I also tried to make adjustments here but found myself not being able to adjust the lever to my liking. The small angled piece of meta,l which the ball end of the clucth cable connects to near the engine casing has no "freeplay" after my adjustments. Should this also have some free play along with freeplay at the lever? Mine at the moment does not, is this important? The angle is still around 80-90 degrees when the clucth is not pressed in and when it is.



I took the bike for a short ride, it didnt feel strange to me but i'm not sure what to be looking for. My concern is burning out the cluth but also the no free play movement on the ball end of the clucth cable near the engine casing which may cause the cable to brake.
 

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Although the clutch lever has the same amount of adjustment as the brake lever, I would NOT attempt to use the closest setting for the clutch lever.
Closest setting meaning that the lever has the least amount of movement. They made the levers alike because it looks good not because they work at that setting.


You probably can use the 2 or 3 setting (#1 setting being full lever movement), but that is about the limit.


Ride safely,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Forgive me if i sound stupid or if i dont understand the obvious. If i do have the clutch lever set to setting 1, which is the closest to the handle bar, does that also mean i have less space to adjust the freeplay and biting point as I thought the lever reach adjustment did not affect this and would allow me to make freeplay adjustments while having the lever be easier to reach.
 

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When you set the lever to be closest to the handlebar, then you are reducing the distance the handle can move.
The handle movement causes the clutch cable to move. The less distance that the lever moves results in less distance of clutch cable movement.
And less distance that the clutch push rod moves.



So, yes, when the clutch cable is moved only a little, then there may not be enough movement of the push rod to separate the clutch plates.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2015/cb500fa-2ac-cb500fa/clutch


SO, the best way is to start with the lever adjusted to the maximum distance from the handlebar and adjust it to work.
Then you can move it 1 or 2 notches and try to adjust the free play again. When you get to having no free play, you have gone too far.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Currently with the lever set to setting 2 ( 1 being closest and 6 furthest away from the handlebar end) i have around 10mm of freeplay at the lever end and very little, maybe 1-2m freeplay, at the ball end near the engine casing. The clutch starts to engage around 1/4 of the travel which i find to be okay. The clucth does feel alittle heavy and tight to press but not overly tight.


The freeplay at the ball end of the clutch cable near the engine casing, is this important or can it have no freeplay? I cant seem to find information on this.


Considering changing back to OEM levers :D
 
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