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Fitted my Ebay clip-ons from Neverland (used them before when I wanted my Marco Simoncelli rep fairings on my 929 FireBlade), chinaman aftermarket levers and renthal grips. Took me about 20 minutes to fit before work.



Points to consider

1) You will have to remove your clutch lever from the cable guide/tab that's connected to to the top yoke/headstock

2) You will need to do the same with the throttle and brake lines on the opposite side. You'll end up with having a few inches of slack on the cables and lines, but at least they won't be kinked at an acute angle.

3) You will have to grind off the lugs on the brake master cylinder, crack open your banjo bolt and rotate your brake hose downwards, i.e. perpendicular to the floor. Failure to do so will cause fouling of the right handlebar against your instrument binnacle.

Also, it allows the master cylinder to be oriented appropriately so that your brake lever is set how you want it.



Clip ons are function over form, since the clamps are asymmetric, i.e. it looks like they just flip the mounts upside down to make it work for the opposite bar. Just have a look at all the pinch bolts and allen heads on the handlebars and you'll be able to see that. LHS - pinch bolts are mounted below centreline axis of the bar. RHS - pinch bolts are above the centreline of the axis. Likewise, same story for the fork stanchion clamping position. Other than aesthetics, it doesn't affect peformance.

The reach of the bars is further out, whilst the droop is nicely "supersports-esque". I can't deal with inward swept bars that are horizontal.

To be honest, the grips, clipons and levers came to about £45, so that's £200 cheaper than if I were to get a set of ASV levers (£160) and gilles clipons (£100). Riding position seems more familiar to what I'm used to. No pain going down the motorway today, although I will need to consider fitting some rearsets to bring my knee further up, allowing me to sit closer to the tank.

What it's effectively done is shifted my weight more over the front of the bike so that I can have a better feel as to what the front is doing. My R1 is a very front-endy bike, so for me, it's important to gauge what level of grip I have. Again, this is down to a decade of riding supersports and superbikes... mostly on wet/damp British roads. The standard bars made the front feel really vague, and when hanging off, I just didn't feel comfortable.

I also don't understand why people feel serious vibrations through handlebars without any weighted bar ends!? Seriously, just don't grip your bars as tight!

Next on the list... rearsets. Want my feet further up and about 10mm back. Then it'll be spot on!
 

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Hi everyone few questions I need answering before I order clip ons for my 2016 CBR500R
1) any clearance issues with vortex clip ons?
2) is it just plug and play or was there some tinkering involved?
3) is there a way to fit Rizoma bar ends on vortex clip Ons?
 

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Hi everyone few questions I need answering before I order clip ons for my 2016 CBR500R
1) any clearance issues with vortex clip ons?
2) is it just plug and play or was there some tinkering involved?
3) is there a way to fit Rizoma bar ends on vortex clip Ons?
Didn't matter about brand with fitting clip-ons, same problems regardless. So for Qs 1&2 refer the past literally 2posts above yours.
For Q3, where there's a will there's a way... I'm sure they can, h*ll I've fitted the oem internal bar weights into my clip-ons, so I'm sure you can figure something out.
 

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has anyone considered lowering the stock bars? They are clip ons after all, i think they would be perfect placed under the top triple tree plate.

any thoughts?

Did just that this weekend!!!


In the first pic the right one (as you look at it) has been lowered in height and angle (left one is standard). But because the the same line is used for the bar the levers etc do not catch the instrument panel AND the steering lock still works!

I painted them black (2 pack) and also carried the bar through an inch.


Will get some better pictures if anyone wants them.


.
 

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Additional: This is basically what I did. looking at the first picture: the black outline shows a side view representation of an original clip on bar. The grey outline shows where I put the new bar. I kept the bar in the same line (looking overhead).


The second picture shows the end result. As you may notice the original bar has a very slight up angle (prob about 1 degree). The modified bar has a good down angle (approx 10 degrees) and the starting point was lowered by about half an inch. I feel this is how the bars should have been to start with, not too low but not as high as standards are now.


As mentioned, I can still use the steering lock and the bars do not interfere with the instrument panel in any way.


I bought 2 second hand clip ons from egay and 2 feet of 7/8 steel tube (1.5mm wall thickness).


Welded with a mig and painted in 2K epoxy primer then 2K black.




.
 

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Fitted my Ebay clip-ons from Neverland (used them before when I wanted my Marco Simoncelli rep fairings on my 929 FireBlade), chinaman aftermarket levers and renthal grips. Took me about 20 minutes to fit before work.



Points to consider

1) You will have to remove your clutch lever from the cable guide/tab that's connected to to the top yoke/headstock

2) You will need to do the same with the throttle and brake lines on the opposite side. You'll end up with having a few inches of slack on the cables and lines, but at least they won't be kinked at an acute angle.

3) You will have to grind off the lugs on the brake master cylinder, crack open your banjo bolt and rotate your brake hose downwards, i.e. perpendicular to the floor. Failure to do so will cause fouling of the right handlebar against your instrument binnacle.

Also, it allows the master cylinder to be oriented appropriately so that your brake lever is set how you want it.



Clip ons are function over form, since the clamps are asymmetric, i.e. it looks like they just flip the mounts upside down to make it work for the opposite bar. Just have a look at all the pinch bolts and allen heads on the handlebars and you'll be able to see that. LHS - pinch bolts are mounted below centreline axis of the bar. RHS - pinch bolts are above the centreline of the axis. Likewise, same story for the fork stanchion clamping position. Other than aesthetics, it doesn't affect peformance.

The reach of the bars is further out, whilst the droop is nicely "supersports-esque". I can't deal with inward swept bars that are horizontal.

To be honest, the grips, clipons and levers came to about £45, so that's £200 cheaper than if I were to get a set of ASV levers (£160) and gilles clipons (£100). Riding position seems more familiar to what I'm used to. No pain going down the motorway today, although I will need to consider fitting some rearsets to bring my knee further up, allowing me to sit closer to the tank.

What it's effectively done is shifted my weight more over the front of the bike so that I can have a better feel as to what the front is doing. My R1 is a very front-endy bike, so for me, it's important to gauge what level of grip I have. Again, this is down to a decade of riding supersports and superbikes... mostly on wet/damp British roads. The standard bars made the front feel really vague, and when hanging off, I just didn't feel comfortable.

I also don't understand why people feel serious vibrations through handlebars without any weighted bar ends!? Seriously, just don't grip your bars as tight!

Next on the list... rearsets. Want my feet further up and about 10mm back. Then it'll be spot on!
Re. Point 3 above. This was the only way I could get my clip-ons to fit correctly. However:
1. You only need to remove the bottom lug on the brake fluid reservoir in order to angle the banjo bolt down.
2. The lug doesn't need to be ground down. 10 seconds with a baby hacksaw did for mine.
3. Having angled the banjo bolt down, I found that this caused a nasty kink in the brake line, so I removed the bracket which secures the brake line and electrical wires from the handlebar (start button, kill switch) which allows the brake line to be straight. Then, ensuring that the brake line and electrical wires did not snag on anything lock to lock, I used cable ties to secure them to the wire bracket which routes the cables from the instrument panel.
Job done. Clip-ons positioned to my satisfaction, no brake line fouling on the instrument panel.
 

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I installed m-factory clip ons today off ebay. I didnt cut the lugs off the master cylinder, just removed the banjo and slipped the brake line over the bottom lug then bled the brakes. I adjusted the rubber grommet with the bracket that holds the brake line by sliding it up the line towards the lever. I still used the bracket. I had problems with the clutch adjuster nut hitting but after a bit of tweaking i got it all sorted. Still have steering lock too. I spent time on drilling the hole in the bars for the switches. Quality clip ons for made in china ebay. Made a big difference with rinding position. Alot more comfortable. Rear sets tomorrow.
 

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Did just that this weekend!!!


In the first pic the right one (as you look at it) has been lowered in height and angle (left one is standard). But because the the same line is used for the bar the levers etc do not catch the instrument panel AND the steering lock still works!

I painted them black (2 pack) and also carried the bar through an inch.


Will get some better pictures if anyone wants them.


.
Epic! I’m going to do this this weekend. Could I please get more photos? Was it hard getting the cap ends off and back? And how was it removing the middle piece and getting the clip ons off and back on?
 
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