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At +62,000 miles, Whatever they're doing must be right. Maybe I can revise my maintenance routine and hope for the same longevity. Or, maybe I just need to put in more seat time. ;)
 

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Mostly dealer serviced, originally Honda but once I decided the resale value was no longer worth the premium I switched to a local garage.

My chain will need replacing soon, and that is something I will do myself. It was looking rusty from the winter and was getting a bit tight in one place. I cleaned it up before having to isolate and thankfully the pandemic has seen little rain, so it should still have some life in it when I finally get to see it again. I really should learn to do more of the routine stuff myself.

In the summer I would normally be riding over 2,000 miles a month, and in total I added just over 20k last year. So if not for the coronavirus I might have reached the 100,000 km mark this year, but without knowing it as I do not think in kilometres.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I think that's brilliant. Do you carry out your own maintenance gavin.
Daily commute to work is a 90km (56 miles) round trip, mostly on the highway.
I have also done a few tours ranging from 400km to about 1500km (250-930 miles)

I do the following maintenance myself:

  • Oil and filter change every 6000km (3728 miles) - short interval due to a lot of wide open throttle highway riding and congestion in between.
  • Air filter gets cleaned and oiled every 3000km (1860 miles) K&N lifetime filter
  • Coolant every 2 years
  • Break pads as needed - have only changed the rear once. Front disc/rotor is nearing its limit. New front disc from Honda is 1/6th the initial purchase price of the bike when it was new - madness - So have an Arashi disc (quality seems surprisingly good) for when the time comes
  • Chain gets cleaned and waxed once a week (have had OEM chain, 1x DID Xring vx2 and currently on a DID Xring vx3)
  • Front and rear sprocket lasted to 70 000km (43 500 miles) - replaced with OEM sprockets as they are good
  • And I am on my third gear lever - they don't seem to last.
The following is done by an ex-honda mechanic that works from home:

  • Sparkplugs every 24 000km (last time I fitted NGK iridium so hoping to get 48 000km)
  • Valve clearances have been checked about 3 times - always within spec
  • Front fork oil and seals replaced at 60 000km
 

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Daily commute to work is a 90km (56 miles) round trip, mostly on the highway.
I have also done a few tours ranging from 400km to about 1500km (250-930 miles)

I do the following maintenance myself:

  • Oil and filter change every 6000km (3728 miles) - short interval due to a lot of wide open throttle highway riding and congestion in between.
  • Air filter gets cleaned and oiled every 3000km (1860 miles) K&N lifetime filter
  • Coolant every 2 years
  • Break pads as needed - have only changed the rear once. Front disc/rotor is nearing its limit. New front disc from Honda is 1/6th the initial purchase price of the bike when it was new - madness - So have an Arashi disc (quality seems surprisingly good) for when the time comes
  • Chain gets cleaned and waxed once a week (have had OEM chain, 1x DID Xring vx2 and currently on a DID Xring vx3)
  • Front and rear sprocket lasted to 70 000km (43 500 miles) - replaced with OEM sprockets as they are good
  • And I am on my third gear lever - they don't seem to last.
The following is done by an ex-honda mechanic that works from home:

  • Sparkplugs every 24 000km (last time I fitted NGK iridium so hoping to get 48 000km)
  • Valve clearances have been checked about 3 times - always within spec
  • Front fork oil and seals replaced at 60 000km
Well that's spot on servicing. It's a credit it to you and Honda. PS what oil do you use. And is it the ball joint on the gear lever that's the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well that's spot on servicing. It's a credit it to you and Honda. PS what oil do you use. And is it the ball joint on the gear lever that's the problem.
I used Motul 7100 10w40 4T (full synthetic) for about the first 50 000km, then it got too expensive

now I use Liqui moly 10w40 4T Street (semi synthetic)

only use OEM oil filters

it's not the ball joint itself that is the issue, but what looks like a type of rivet that attaches the ball joint to the gear arm that comes loose and causes excessive play on the lever

72202
 

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I used Motul 7100 10w40 4T (full synthetic) for about the first 50 000km, then it got too expensive

now I use Liqui moly 10w40 4T Street (semi synthetic)

only use OEM oil filters

it's not the ball joint itself that is the issue, but what looks like a type of rivet that attaches the ball joint to the gear arm that comes loose and causes excessive play on the lever

View attachment 72202
Both **** good oils, always wondered about that liqui moly. By the way just had my gearchange replaced under warranty, top end but same problem. What I will do out of warranty is a dab of weld. Safe riding.
 

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Ive been worried my 2016 is getting over the hill, past it, ready to retire to that private bitumen track in the sky ...just passed 16000km...maybe she's got a bit left in her after all....
Unless i service her to death...bought 18months ago with 2500km.. Off a fella who bought new, couldnt remember if any service had been done, and handed it over with 15 pounds in the tyres and a packet of viagra under the seat (!?)....
Ive changed oil&filter three times, different semisynthetics and filters each time....currently k&n filter and penrite oil...rear pads once , about 10000kms first owner might of used pedal as a peg....air filter change last week...michelin road pilot fives at 8-9000...the stock dunlops had been on and hardly used for two years, lost about 5 pounds of air a week...the michelins are amazing.....confidence shot up after they went on...coffmans shorty around 8000kms, personal preference, but i like the louder crack&pop...i wash, clean chain etc weekly.....
I commute five days a week, 40km per day with twenty of that 110km/hr expressway...300-600km weekend rides every fortnight at least....i did park it up for a few months when away for work...
Next up i plan to change out sprockets&chain, replace brake fluid&coolant, front pads.....
Any advice re: importance of getting a dealer service (valve clearances etc)?...stuff i should have done or should do soon?...how to prove the black&orange 2016 is the best looking, by far, of the cbr5's?
 

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... it's not the ball joint itself that is the issue, but what looks like a type of rivet that attaches the ball joint to the gear arm that comes loose and causes excessive play on the lever
Yeah mine's getting up there too (90K km) and I was encountering the same issue with the gear change rivet you point out... at least until I switched to rearsets.
I solved the issue of that rivet with a carefully placed whack of appropriate sized pin-punch and hammer to tighten up its hold.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ive been worried my 2016 is getting over the hill, past it, ready to retire to that private bitumen track in the sky ...just passed 16000km...maybe she's got a bit left in her after all....
Unless i service her to death...bought 18months ago with 2500km.. Off a fella who bought new, couldnt remember if any service had been done, and handed it over with 15 pounds in the tyres and a packet of viagra under the seat (!?)....
Ive changed oil&filter three times, different semisynthetics and filters each time....currently k&n filter and penrite oil...rear pads once , about 10000kms first owner might of used pedal as a peg....air filter change last week...michelin road pilot fives at 8-9000...the stock dunlops had been on and hardly used for two years, lost about 5 pounds of air a week...the michelins are amazing.....confidence shot up after they went on...coffmans shorty around 8000kms, personal preference, but i like the louder crack&pop...i wash, clean chain etc weekly.....
I commute five days a week, 40km per day with twenty of that 110km/hr expressway...300-600km weekend rides every fortnight at least....i did park it up for a few months when away for work...
Next up i plan to change out sprockets&chain, replace brake fluid&coolant, front pads.....
Any advice re: importance of getting a dealer service (valve clearances etc)?...stuff i should have done or should do soon?...how to prove the black&orange 2016 is the best looking, by far, of the cbr5's?
16000km is still "spring-chicken" mileage on this bike... I'm confident mine will still see 200 000km. As mentioned, my valve clearances have been checked a couple of times and each time were in tolerance. (not to say that yours are) If going to do it at a Honda dealer, I suggest insisting on sitting down and watching them check it.. Very easy for them to say they checked and when they didn't (I had a Honda dealer 'check' mine twice in the past - only to find when I went to a private (ex-honda mechanic) that the valve cover had never been opened before. There is a thread on here somewhere about how to do it yourself, but that is above my pay-grade. Keep up the riding and many more happy km's.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah mine's getting up there too (90K km) and I was encountering the same issue with the gear change rivet you point out... at least until I switched to rearsets.
I solved the issue of that rivet with a carefully placed whack of appropriate sized pin-punch and hammer to tighten up its hold.
Awesome, will give your centre punch trick a try. If that doesn't work I will spot weld the rivet - nothing to lose as have 2x spare levers with loose rivets
 

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I've got over 58,000 miles on my 2014 500R. I've done all my own maintenance, including valve checks and tire changes. I change oil and filter every 5,000 miles and use Delo 400LE diesel oil because it does not have friction modifiers. I used this same oil and filter change routine in my previous bike, a Kawasaki Ninja 650 that I put 115,000 miles on. I also use Purolator PL filters.
 

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I find a used bike more reassuring if it is in good condition, as that shows it rides well because someone was happily riding it. When you considering the problems a new bike can have, the need to run it in, and the immediate drop in value, why would anyone want to go through that? Let someone else take the technical and financial hit!

Though whilst I would not want anything with a too high mileage, I would be even more against something where it is too low. If it is several years old but only done a few hundred miles I would worry about why and any undiscovered problems it may have had or developed.
 

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Well you cannot beat a brand new anything, to have the latest hype available, to open the box or remove the cover for the first time, to be the first to use it in anger, to polish and cosset like a baby checking for any insects that may have imperfected your purchase, to not have to worry about any issues while under warranty, and hopefully have at least 3 years trouble free riding Some body has to supply the used market. And because I treat mine like a baby the next buyer will benefit from it. For those that cannot justify new, you can still have the same experience, knowing that the previous owner loved it as much as you. If we didn't have the people to buy used where the **** would we be now. A toast🍺 to you all.
 
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