How To Change Front Brake Pads - Page 3 - Honda CBR500R Forum : CB500F and CB500X Forums
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 12:38 AM
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It's possible Honda has data suggesting reused bolts in this application have higher failure rates than new ones. Considering brakes are a safety system they may recommend replacing them out of an abundance of caution. Honda spends millions on R&D and they collect data from warranty repairs, too. It's likely a safety or legal matter rather than a financial one. If you're careful and use a torque wrench it is probably alright. But I imagine Honda mentions it for a decent reason.

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 06:33 AM
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Just to say thanks a lot for this guide, very helpful!
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 06:32 AM
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At 10k miles and I'm noticing I have to depress my brakes a lot further to get it to stop. Looking to do this soon. One sight I saw online has said the part number has upgraded and changed to 06455-MGS-D32. Not sure if that's right. But I'm going to try it.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 10:58 PM
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First and foremost - thanks to everyone in this thread for the info. I just changed my front pads on an ABS model. At first I chose to not remove the housing but, given the amount of brake dust and difficulty moving the pistons back into the house even just enough to get the old pads out, I changed my mind pretty quickly.

There was nothing extra I had to do on the ABS model. I left all the wiring etc. connected and was very careful with the sensor to not knock it. Everything came apart fine once the housing was off, and after a quick clean of the pistons they slid, with a bit of effort mind you, back into the housing.

Re-assembly was just the reverse of the assembly, so straight forward. Mind you, I've done the "garage test" but haven't been for a ride on the road yet, so this may be my last post if something isn't right.

Now, one thing I noticed which wasn't quite right or as described, is the backing plate behind each pad. My pads had no backing plate, neither the pads I bought or the pads I removed. This takes my mind back to the last time I had my pads changed which was done in the shop, and for about the first 500km after that there was a weird clicking sound that came from the front when braking. I took it back to the shop like 3 times and they could never find the fault, and after a while it stopped making the noise, so given that it was stopping fine otherwise I let it slide.

But it occurs to me now that those idiots (this being just one of the time consuming and completely non-customer friendly issues I had with them) probably removed the backing plate with the old pads and never put them back in. Is this likely, or do some models not have them? Mine's a 2014 CBR500RA.

In a way I'm glad they screwed me around so many times because I've learnt to do all my maintenance myself - saves $'s and I do enjoy it.

Anyway, when it's not raining I'll take her for a spin and make sure everything's in order. It's comforting to see my brake fluid at the top of the window and not hovering around the "Low" marker any more...

EDIT: Oh and on a final note - I used the blue loctite rather than replacing the bolts. I'll check them every day for a bit just to be sure, but I don't think they're going anywhere.

2014 CBR500RA (Red)
1988 CBR250R (Black&Yellow) (Sold)

Last edited by Wavefront; 10-12-2018 at 11:01 PM.
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-13-2018, 10:25 AM
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These shops are full of inexperienced untrained so called tech's. Lot of bad work going on in these shops. Charging for work not performed, especially with valve checks and adjustment, or the task not performed correctly. Case in point, my local shop do not stock, shims, Air cleaner or even spark plugs for my bike. So how are they charging people for those parts during maintenance performed. Do those parts magically drop out of the sky. So someone put marks on the valve cover, plugs, air cleaner. And busted the idiots for work not performed. Buyer beware. The shop got out of being shut down by producing evidence that 2 red cbr's in the shop at the same time, and the front desk gal called the wrong owner to pick his bike up. They were cleared of wrong doing. That shop now use a camera in the shop to cover their butt. I don't trust these shops even with a camera on their ass.

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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 08:02 AM
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Alright so anyway, I lookup up those backing plates and from what I can tell they're just for sound deadening or something. I'll assume they're useless, given that I haven't had them for 2 years and don't hear anything weird.

2014 CBR500RA (Red)
1988 CBR250R (Black&Yellow) (Sold)
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 09:23 AM
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the 500s doesn't have backing plates for the brake pads, front & rear.
anyway the backing plates, if any act as heat shield to dissipate heat away from the brake pistons.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 05:26 PM
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There is a backing plate on the inner pad (only), front and rear, AU models.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 12:07 AM
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Last Saturday afternoon I decided to change my front brake pads. Iíve done 50,000 km on the original pads.
Upon taking out the old ones, I could see they still had about 40% left on them. So decided to put them back in. Whole job took 5 minutes. I didnít bother cleaning the calliper.
Whilst tightening the calliper bolts, I didnít hear my torque wrench click. So I over tightened the bottom bolt. I thought something was wrong as the bolt was obviously going on too tight. So I loosened it. In doing so the bolt snapped at half its length.
I then tried to loosen the other bolt but my cheapo sockets started to round off the bolt head.
Went to hardware store and bought a $150 socket set and, it being a Saturday afternoon with no bike shops open, I bought an 8mm x 35 mm bolt to replace the broken one.

Back home the new sockets were great. Got the unbroken bolt off easy. However, the broken bolt wouldnít allow me to get the calliper off. I had to take the rotor off to allow enough wiggle room to get the calliper off.
Once off, there was just enough broken bolt to get pliers around it to slowly get the bolt out.
Then, putting the brake pads back in for some reason took 20 minutes. Then another 10 minutes to re-assemble everything.
The non standard bolt from the hardware store is 2mm longer than it should be, so I used it for the upper bolt so it wouldnít snag on anything.
Iíve ordered 2 new bolts and a new retaining pin from Honda which will take 3 days to arrive.
So from a 5 minute job it took 3 hours.
Then today I noticed fluid from the brake reservoir dripping. Iíve tightened everything up and cleaned up. No idea why that would happen. Will wait and see if still dripping.

Interestingly, my brakes feel like they have more bite. Also the brake lever has less play in it, as if it had thicker pads. But Iím using the old pads.

Pic of old vs new pads.

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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 01:27 PM
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I found this thread as i'm going to redo my brakes after my rear pads started grinding as i let them get too low. I'm replacing with EBC Sintered pads on front and back and caught before rotor was damaged. After reading many comments some of you must ride your brakes like and old grandma as i'm at 32k miles and this is my first brake job taking for granted i should have replaced at 30k seeing how the rear has been worn. Also i realize i may be using my rear brakes much more than front even though i compress both brakes when stopping as the front still have treadwear remaining. Just Some thoughts. THanks for the writeup.
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