Today was the day that I finally rolled over the magic 600-mile mark (no thanks to the horrid weather for delaying me from achieving it until now), so I settled in to do my first oil change on the CBR. Outlined below is how you, too, can change your own oil instead of relying on some dealership punk to mess with your ride.
What you'll need:
3 quarts of your oil of choice (I used Honda HP4S 10w30)
1 oil filter (OEM Honda filter part number 15410-MFJ-D01)
12mm socket and wrench
Something to catch your old oil in
Shop towels in case you're as messy as I am
Rear stand (not necessary, but highly recommended)
First off, take a short ride! This will get the oil nice and hot and it will flow easier. If you can't do that, just idle the bike for 3-5 minutes. If you so feel inclined, set your bike up on your rear stand.
Crawl up under your little beast and locate the oil pan drain bolt, circled here.
Break that sucker loose with your 12mm socket wrench, and then slowly remove the bolt.
Here is probably where you'll do what I did, and curse whoever decided to put the drain bolt on the side of the pan instead of facing downward. Oil shoots out a good 6-8 inches toward your back tire, so watch out for that. I hope your oil catching device has a larger opening than mine does. Anyway, after it finally dribbles to a halt, put the drain bolt back in and tighten to 22 ft.lbs / 30 N-m, or as I did, "that's probably tight enough." You can replace the sealing washer if you'd like, but at only 600 miles, reusing it is just fine.
Now, the oil filter. You can get at it easy enough with all fairings in place (on the R at least), just have your handlebars turned to the left and go at it from the left side.
Now I'm not sure if the factory puts these on or if it was just my dealership, but mine felt like it was put on by Hercules himself. I eventually had to go at it from below with a large pair of channel lock pliers. It was a tight squeeze, but I managed to turn it JUST enough to get it to break loose.
Now before you go unscrewing the filter all the way off, here's a tip. Place a plastic bag over the filter itself and pull it up over the filter, then slowly turn the filter inside the bag. It's tricky, but doing this will let the excess oil drain into the bag instead of all over your exhaust tubing and everything else in the area. You should probably keep your oil catcher below you just in case, though!
After you've got it all cleaned up under there, take your fingertip and dab it in some oil, then moisten the rubber seal along the mounting edge of your new filter. I also pour in a small amount of fresh oil in the new filter to get the filter element moistened up a bit, but that probably isn't necessary. Carefully screw your new filter on and tighten to 19 ft.lbs / 26 N-m, or "until it starts resisting, then about a quarter/half turn more."
Now, unscrew the oil plug on the right side of your motor and start dumping in that fresh new oil!
This little plastic screw-on funnel thing is the best thing I ever found in the bins of crap beside the cash register at the local auto parts store. It makes adding oil with no mess a piece of cake. Now, add about 2 1/4 quarts of fresh oil to your bike, or until the oil gets close to the high mark on the little crankcase peephole. MAKE SURE to check this level when the bike is fully upright and NOT on the kick-stand, or you may overfill!
The oil level is to be read ONLY when the engine is off and the bike is fully upright.
At this point you might think you're done. WELLLL, not quite. Screw the oil cap back on tight, and then start up your bike. Let her run for a minute or two while checking for any leaks around the drain bolt and filter, then shut her off. Now that the oil is spread throughout the system, you'll be able to add more oil until you're at the proper level, which is anywhere in between the 2 lines of the peephole. I ended up using all but the last 8 ounces of my 3rd bottle of oil, but your mileage may vary.
Now that you've given new lifeblood to your baby, buttoned her all back up, and checked for any leaks, time for another ride! Marvel to yourself at how much smoother she revs and shifts in a vain attempt to justify the additional cost of your fancy pure synthetic oil. Okay, you guys don't have to do that, but that's what I did, at least
So, in the end, changing the oil on the 500 is pretty easy. If you've got the time, tools, and the know-how, don't bother wasting your money letting a dealership do this simple task for you. Ride on!