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Performance mods worth buying...

88K views 39 replies 26 participants last post by  gazt91d3 
#1 ·
Hey all,

Looking to get a few performance mods on my CBR 500 - I see that its worth getting an aftermarket air filter... but what else is it worth buying to get a little bit extra out of the bike?

Thanks!
 
#5 ·
there are not really huge gains to be have with this bike, but you can get a few ponies more without going totally crazy with money, good mod candidates for that are:
aftermarket exhaust
air filter (usually people go for KN)
power commander V (pc-v)
proper dyno tuning
that would cost you something below 1000$ depending on the components you chose and could bring you to about 50 HP
depending on the legislation in your country, you can go with catalytic converter delete, i'm aware of this one IXIL DECAT RACE PIPE HONDA CBR 500 R 2013-2016 - IXIL USA so that's another 170$
few people went with aftermarket cam shafts, didn't see any results from that yet

another good way to improve performance is what was already partially mentioned ... new tires (when the time is due), shocks, forks, and making the bike lighter by removing unnecessary stuff (passenger pegs and so on)
this won't increase the power, but will increase the power to weight ratio and change weight distribution, which in result will cause better bike handling (for example when i changed the 4200g heavy stock exhaust for the 2091g carbon fiber sc-project, i felt the difference, the bike was falling to a lean faster)

so basically ... it's up to you how much money you want to spend and what is your line when you say "okay, that's enough"
 
#6 · (Edited)
Having gone to town on my bike with modifications (refer sig link), even going all out with engine mods just won't yield the gains one is hopeful for; the engine just doesn't have that much uncorkable (is that a word?) potential. The bang-for-buck factor will leave you wanting. I personally would just recommend getting a slip-on as far as engine "performance" goes, and direct your money towards improving the suspension.
Seriously, I'm with Yamanto on this, the real performance upgrade to be had with this bike is not the power but is in the components that get the power to the ground. This thing loves the twisties and with better suspension, properly setup, and some stickier tyres, you'll have the boys on their big toys looking in their mirror wondering why they can't loose you.
 
#9 ·
If yours is one of the model years lacking fork preload adjusters, get those. They are a quick, easy, inexpensive addition that can make a world of difference! If you're in the USA or another area that gets the short end of the tools stick, order the OE shock spanner and extension, too. With these things, you can get the sag set properly, then add a little more preload for a nice, firm ride.
See the tools thread and the DIY suspension thread.
Cheers,
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
Without seeing your location you might consider this:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10153016024292800.1073741857.288217777799&type=1

They are guys from Slovakia, building race bikes and designed this intake for the 500f for a local customer. I can't find their product on ebay now but you can contact them via Facebook directly. If I'm not mistaken they have asked for 85 EUR + delivery for a set. That would be like 20EUR/hp?
They wrote that some markets have the restricted intake - but which are they and how can I tell if my bike is not restricted?
 
#12 ·
I have not touched the motor on my bike. The Honda engineers have done a sensational job providing good balance between power delivery and fuel consumption. It is very forgiving for the learner rider in terms of gear selection and rev range. Personally, I don't touch anything that I do not fully understand. You tinker with one thing and it potentially affects something else.

If you enjoy spirited riding, then spend your money on suspension upgrades.

If your just using it for commuting or a stepping stone to your next bike, then leave as is.

I have mainly done cosmetic and suspension upgrades.
 
#16 ·
I'm always a bit wary of performance numbers posted by companies who want to make money by selling aftermarket exhausts, fuel controllers and other goodies like these intake stacks.
I'm not saying they're all lying, but I think they may not be telling the whole truth.
If there are several riders who try them out and are happy with them, I may consider installing them - in maybe half a year or so, just to see what the fallout is.
But thanks for the info anyways! :)
 
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#17 ·
I get your point. I was quite sceptic also at first. ButvI went after it and got it confirmed.
I have no interest in promoting their stuff for many reasons, but as I both raced against bikes they have built and also worked on some bikes they have been working on before I respect their work and professionalism.
They are not a large aftermarket manufacturer like Takegawa or others but mainly make their living from special projects and low series manufacturing. As reputation is very important in the race bike building community it would not worth for them to post unsupported claims on a 85eur product when they could lose many customers wo are paying thousands for an engine race prep work alone because of lost trust.
But I also understand that CEE is very far from Thailand. So I'm also careful believing in some results that are posted by some Thai tuners as I have no way to get reference on them. I do have on these.
 
#18 ·
Not sure if you'd consider changing the ergonomics a performance mod, but here's my take.
I had installed a rearset on my 500R early on, since I got the R for the sport seating position, but felt that I could use some higher up pegs. Rode on it for about 8000 miles over the year, and then put the stock pegs back on and I didn't realize what a difference it made until I rode on the stock pegs again, it basically felt like a full upright 500F!

Then again, this is all preference, most people are perfectly happy with the stock seating position, but I felt that the rearset was my favorite mod, in the end.
 
#19 ·
Thirty year age reduction & Thirty Lbs off waist reduction. Although I have lost over 30 lbs from my top weight of 220lbs. Still need to get down to 175 lbs. other than that add some rockets to the bike. Just having some Fun with this Post. Hope I haven't affended anyone.
 
#22 ·
Search for a lowering kit for the rear and raise the forks on the triple clamp by an equal amount in the front. You'll probably need a shorter side stand. I lowered my NC700X by a mere 15mm and had to get a 20mm shorter side stand.
 
#25 ·
The comment that I'm about to make should probably have it's own thread, but here goes:

Do not install an aftermarket high flow air filter. K&N style filters are great for naturally aspirated bikes, that is, bikes with carburetors, but not fuel injected bikes. There's a reason Honda chose the filter design we have and it's not emissions, it's filtration. Fuel injected bikes use sensors to detect air flow and that data is used to regulate fuel injection. High flow filters allow more particulates to pass over the sensors and those particulates inevitably foul the sensor and it will need to be replaced. You will never see any performance increase from these filters because your air/fuel mix is electronically controlled. You'd need to add a full exhaust or cat delete, new performance can, and remap accordingly which means buying an expensive fuel injection controller like a power commander and then doing a bunch of costly Dyno runs to get the maps right. You might also need to modify the intake and even buy performance velocity stacks. If you're going there, then you're looking at performance cam kits and into the thousands of dollars already. All that just to make a high flow filter work the way it's intended to. Just don't. You're just going to be disappointed and wind up with sensor problems before you should. There are a lot of smart guys around here. Anyone disagree with this?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 
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#26 · (Edited)
I will let you know on Friday, when i have my dyno session scheduled, where i'm going to test exactly the influence of a modified intake + high flow air filter (sprint filter P08) compared to stock setup on a bike with cat (changed slip-on). So we will see about the gains then. Keep in mind, that I have the European model with restricted stacks installed (they will be replaced for the next run with unrestricted).

So then we can talk about facts instead of guesses.

As for now i disagree only with a few things. It is true that our bikes are fuel injected with a o2 sensor measuring AFR at the exhaust, but the idea of dynamically adjusting the ratio on the fly is (to my knowledge, from what i found when i was researching this topic) wrong. These bikes will check the AFR on the start and in low revs and adjust accordingly, but in higher revs they follow a preset map, which is incidentally quite rich (as the dyno runs done by several independent people shown), that means allowing a bit more air into the system will lean out the ARF closer to the optimum ratio. This was discussed in great details and explained in the modding topic set up by @tothezenith

As for the filtration ability of the filters, you may choose to believe the marketing claims about filtration ability and airflow or not ... what i can point you to though is a review of the sprintfilter done by MO Tested: Sprint Air Filter on a stock R6
 
#27 · (Edited)
First let me address the test bike. The R6 that was used for those tests does not have the same type of fuel injection system our bikes have. The 2003 R6 had the same FI as the 2002 R1. That fuel injection system was introduced for the 2002 year, which worked like a carburetor by employing a CV carburetor slide controlled by vacuum created by the engine. On that system a filter like this would naturally work as intended. I started my statement by talking about bikes that are aspirated this way. Our bikes aren't. I will also mention that I don't agree that the CBR runs rich. There is no research that I'm aware of to indicate that, and it is contrary to the conditions needed to meet emissions requirements. Most major manufacturers tend to set maps slightly on the lean side for that reason. I also mentioned that adding a high flow filter would require other costly mods and senseless expense on the Dyno in order to work as intended, which you are clearly proving. My point was that one shouldn't add a high flow filter unless you we ready to spend a ton more than the air filter costs. Finally, there is no question that using a high flow filter allows more particulates into the system. That's not debatable. The testing done on high flow filters that show they meet the minimum SAEJ726 or ISO5011 requirements is done using a new filter with new oil applied with precision. In order to meet those conditions you'd need to put a new perfectly oiled high flow filter into your bike every day. Real world use is not like that in testing procedures and the stock filter in our bike is not what's being used for comparison. High flow filters are not for your average rider or commuter. They are bad for your motor and aren't worth the cost or hassle, but as long as you're doing it, after you change your velocity stacks then do a Dyno run with a clean stock filter and then do a run with your high flow filter. You will be disappointed. I hate to rain on your parade, but that's what will happen.

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#28 ·
@chzeckmate as for now, with the EU velocity stacks installed, you were right, there is little to no improvement from just the filter (+ modified intake), i am currently in the process of installing the US / AUS stacks which are unrestricted and will test again after everything is in place (again with the stock filter / intake and with sprint filter / modified intake)

see the result in this thread:
http://www.cbr500riders.com/forum/e.../58233-high-flow-intake-mod-7.html#post847057
 
#29 ·
Thanks for keeping us updated. For what it's worth, I wish I would've been wrong.

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#30 ·
First time I'm hearing someone talk about NA outside of not being supercharged or turbocharged.

Fuel injection between designs surely isn't that different where the air pressure it all at normal atmospheric pressure.
The whole oil vs paper filter debate is old, I've played the game in turbo cars, yes the airflow sensors can technically be damaged and the oil from the filter can get onto the sensor. Paper-style filters are cheaper and work well, if its not broke, why change...
 
#32 ·
highly recommend an inexpensive aftermarket exhaust - I went with a Delkevic carbon fiber and stainless steel slip on around $300 sounds awesome and looks great. I installed shorty levers, T-Rex spool and sliders kit. other planned upgrades: a better seat, better grips, better tires, better windscreen. after that I will start saving for the big upgrade which is a more powerful bike.
 
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