Ordered Lowering kit for 2104 CB500X - Comments Apreciated - Page 2 - Honda CBR500R Forum : CB500F and CB500X Forums
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExTex View Post
I'm looking forward to your reporting on how the 500x works for you lowered.

Something that I would like to ride instead of my 500F

ride safely,
OK I will keep posted on here.

Kit came today - not feeling well (pretty good but not 100% prescriptions for this Bronchitis run out MAR 3 - hopefully cured by then as antibiotics treatment prescription will be done on that date).

Debating if I should go mess with it this evening.

I would like to install it as we have some near 60F weather coming SAT and SUN. At least get it out for a test ride if I am healthy enough.

My guess the bike handling is not going to feel much difference. Maybe an EXPERT RACER TYPE WOULD FEEL DIFFERENCE.

We shall see.

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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-rider View Post
If you don't drop the tree then you'll get a steeper rake, which usually results in more straight line stability at the expense of ease of cornering.
steeper rake actually increases the steering agility, quicker turn-in, in expense of reduced straight line stability.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by blackburn View Post
steeper rake actually increases the steering agility, quicker turn-in, in expense of reduced straight line stability.
Not going to argue the point as I am not an expert and we may all be saying the same thing (I hope).

That said, a friend is more or less an expert and an it makes sense to me that:

If you lower the rear --- You have more trail and more stability and less response to steering inputs.

The CB500X is plenty responsive stock for my riding and I don't think 1 1/4 inch lower rear will be noticed by me. COULD BE WRONG. But, I did not notice any major change on a NINJA 500 when I dropped the tree 1 inch.

Conversely if you lower the front - it is the opposite, less stability and more responsiveness.

I am 'gonna' guess - most of us amateur (non race) riders will not notice any difference with the modifications being discussed (1 1/4 inch lower rear).

Last edited by PAULRIDES; 01-30-2016 at 12:13 AM.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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First four Pictures show final results.

So far, I am happy. The lean angle without shortening the side stand is A OK and it comes up on the Center Stand with reasonable effort. That said, I have not had a test ride.

I am Flat Footed now with street shoes on and will be better yet with thicker sole riding wear (boots). For Info -- I have about a 27 or maybe 28 inch inseam (28 inch jeans are a bit long on me).

I have not lowered the front end and probably will not. It is an option and it would make it a bit lower. WAIT & SEE on that. I do not expect any issues on handling (a little bit lower might be nice).

View is Left Side (Chain Side) after new plates installed. Those are the bolts that go thru the plate.

View is Right Side (Muffler Side) after installation. Those are the nuts on the bolts.
The Kit Procedure said tighten the nuts tight or use torque wrench at 22 Ft Lbs. I just tightened (they were not real hard to break loose initially). The nut has a lock type washer that holds it. I did not think My torque wrench would fit under there. I found out it did, so I checked the nuts. I had a good deal tighter than than 22 Ft Lbs and left them that way.

Pictures shows the amount of lowering by the fact the wheel is now raised above the board (it is a 1 1/4 inch kit). The picture shows the bike on the center stand and wheel raised the length of the socket above that board after kit installation. The wheel was on the board (barely touching) before installation. So, it will be that much lower when I take it off the Center Stand.
I am glad I did not order the side stand shortening kit (another $25). Lean angle is A OK after kit install. This bike had a bit too much lean angle before putting this kit on anyway.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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TOOLS & SETUP that I used. Not that I am an expert on this (my first one), but maybe help someone wanting to do their own kit.

Tools -- I only needed or used a 14MM Box End (Bolt Side) and 17MM Socket (Nut Side), and long bar and ratchets as needed. Nuts screw off by hand once you get them started.
Setup - I put the bike on the center stand with the center stand on a 1 1/4 thick board (gives more room to work). Plus, I really lucked out as when I put two boards (1 1/4 each) under the rear wheel, it was a snug fit and there was no resistance to removing the bolts and old plates.

Safety Thing -- I tied the Front Brake Lever "ON" to make sure bike did not roll off center stand as I worked on the lowering kit.

Thought about taking Muffler off for more room - Glad I did not as worked OK with out doing that. I used 14MM Box End wrench on chain side to hold the bolt (Box End stays on better) and 17 MM Socket on the Nut to break them loose (not a lot of torque required).

Nuts removed from the right side and bolts pushed back a bit. Like I said, lucked out as no tension on the bolts with the two boards under the rear wheel and Center Stand on a board.

Removed Right Side (Muffler Side) plate.

Compared old Right Side Plate to the new Right Side Plate. PANIC -- the dang holes don't line up. Dumb Me - no problem as I found out later when installing new plates. :-)

Removing Left Side (Chain Side) old plates. Bolts pull out from this side (finger pull if no tension on them). You can see one partially out. Sorry Blurred this one a bit and third bolt is behind the chain.

This bottom link (swings) is attached to the lower hole in the plate and drops down (swings where you need it to be, but you have to raise and lower the rear wheel when installing the new plate).
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Last edited by PAULRIDES; 01-30-2016 at 12:16 AM.
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Make Links swing where you need them to be by lowering and raising the rear wheel ----

You may need a helping hand or as I did use a leg under the board under the wheel to move the wheel and swing arm UP & DOWN to make the holes line up with the new plate. (see Picture of Knee under the board)

I first installed the front upper bolt and then moved the wheel up and down to align the back upper bolt. I also pushed the sleeve out of there (looks like some bearing up in there. I was able to get the sleeve back in. Be careful to hold the back side of the sleeve when putting the bolt in.

Then you move the wheel up and down until the swing arm lines up with the lower bolt hole on the plate. Pretty easy actually. Again, a helper might make it easier. but I was able to do it using my knee under the board as picture shows.

See - Not lined up yet. Raise and lower rear wheel and it lines up.

Two of my bolts had corrosion. I brushed them and used a bit of anti seize before reinstalling.
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Last edited by PAULRIDES; 01-30-2016 at 12:17 AM.
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 10:52 AM
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I do agree, you need extra hands!
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by blackburn View Post
I do agree, you need extra hands!
It would be easier MAYBE if someone was adjusting the rear wheel while installing the bolts. I say MAYBE because one has to adjust and align at the same time and it might be hard to coordinate that.

Anyway, it was not a real problem --- lying on the floor with knee under the board and watching the bolt holes while inserting the bolts.
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 03:34 PM
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Looks good, hope it rides well for you.
I did the 2" kit on my F, but left the front forks stock. As I use my bike almost entirely for commuting, largely freeway riding, the stability helps out there. I'm definitely not a track-day racer, haven't been out dragging pegs on the twisties.

2014 CB500F ABS
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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SO FAR -- short ride to gym this AM (about 25 miles RT), mostly level or slight hills with a few moderate curves ( 40 mph areas) and some 90 degree sharp intersections that I took pretty fast (Fast For Me That Is).

I DON'T SEE ANY DIFFERENCE IN HANDLING.

Sag and Pre-Load is something I have not done on any MC I owned. I just rode them as they were.

But, I would like to check sag and adjust.

Number of Videos on U-Tube about doing it (basically unloaded (wheel off ground) measurement, then measurement with wheel on ground (bike weight only), then measurement with rider in full gear on bike.

U-Tubes talk and show mostly sport bikes and compare racing to street. Street sag is softer (say 35MM) and race sag is stiffer (say 30MM). One detailed slow going but easy to understand. Different bikes adjust differently and this one has shock adjustment that is new to me). The main thing is the measurements and corrections.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4m4ahZLRMY

Another.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGgq1z9zbo

Those are starting points (measurements and specs 30MM or 35MM) and one can vary depending on road or track conditions and riding style. Too complicated and too many variables for me to THINK ABOUT. I just want a number (MM) to try and set Sag / Pre-Load for a CB500X for mostly street, mtns, curves (decent speeds but not racing) and some off road (mild gravel roads at reasonable speeds).

Probably make this a separate topic and see if anyone knows anything or if it is worth worrying about for normal sensible safe riding (Which I do for the Most Part HA!). :-)

Then there are rebound settings, etc. etc. (way over my head and riding skill).
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