Clutch plates thickness requirements? - Honda CBR500R Forum : CB500F and CB500X Forums
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch plates thickness requirements?

Can anyone tell me what the thickness should be for the clutch plates and when the service manual says they should be replaced at? I see online that there are 4 types in the clutch stack, total of 13 plates. The outer most friction plate and steel plate, then 6 other friction plates that are all the same, and 5 other steel plates that are all the same. I plan on taking the clutch apart and checking the thickness on all the plates tomorrow because I'm pretty sure some are worn out beyond what they should be. I just want to get an idea because I'm hoping I don't have to replace all of them. Bike Bandit sells everything individually and most times it's just the friction plates that need replacing but I want to check all to make sure.


2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across north america)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
2009 ZX6R (race bike)
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Nobody knows? @tothezenith, is this info in the service manual by chance?

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across north america)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
2009 ZX6R (race bike)
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 06:59 AM
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I'm afraid this is too specific question for this forum ... there are maybe 3 active people that come to mind, that could maybe answer the question, and you are one of them ... best bet would be probably to order one of each plate, so you have a reference and just measure and compare ...
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 02:49 PM
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I can give a gander through my service manual tonight to see. The last I checked and remember, I think it just mentioned grabbing the set directly from Honda. Which is expensive.

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Please do if you have the service manual. It would be very helpful! I took them all out and measured, I just want to have a reference. They seemed to be in good shape though, didn't notice and odd wear. I took some pictures and plan on posting a how-to write-up after I'm done for future reference if others are looking to do this.

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across north america)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
2009 ZX6R (race bike)
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 07:37 PM
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Disc thickness 2.30- 2.50 (.091- .098)

You should measure each of the frictions in three places each.

You can pretty much see the condition of the steels by eye. The manual does not give the specs but you van measure one to the other. You should be able to stack the steels on top of each other without any air gaps in between to check for warpage.
The steels have a rounded edge and a sharp edge and they must all go back in the same direction.

By the diagram in the manual it appears there is at least one odd size either a cork or friction so be careful. The manual calls it 'clutch disc B'. Also I see a 'Clutch plate B'. Which appear to be different from the rest.

I'll snap a pic of the manual diagram.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 07:50 PM
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suppose to be good as long as you don't get any slips.
you're just curious because you race on tracks.

I just read on MCN website that too much oil is not good for wet clutch.
it's an old article but I think it's still relevant.

How to service your clutch | MCN

CBR500R
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blipco View Post
Disc thickness 2.30- 2.50 (.091- .098)

You should measure each of the frictions in three places each.

You can pretty much see the condition of the steels by eye. The manual does not give the specs but you van measure one to the other. You should be able to stack the steels on top of each other without any air gaps in between to check for warpage.
The steels have a rounded edge and a sharp edge and they must all go back in the same direction.

By the diagram in the manual it appears there is at least one odd size either a cork or friction so be careful. The manual calls it 'clutch disc B'. Also I see a 'Clutch plate B'. Which appear to be different from the rest.

I'll snap a pic of the manual diagram.
Much appreciated blipco! I wouldn't think the steel plates are worn out...takes a lot to do that. I've never had to replace steel plates on any bike so far, but I'm surprised the manual doesn't give a spec for those. Is there anything about total stack height by chance?

I measured all the plates, multiple measurements for each one and took an average, although they were all pretty consistent. All the steels came out to be around 2.04-2.05 mm and all the friction plates came out to be 2.39 - 2.42. I did see before that the first friction plate was different from the rest and supposedly the first steel plate is different from the rest, although I can't really tell the difference with that one. Looks the same to me

Anyway...if they call out for 2.30 - 2.50 range, then it looks like mine are right in the middle. Not sure what to do then. Based on my experience from earlier this season with my zx6r in which the clutch was slipping, I've learned that it doesn't take much to make it slip. With my zx6r it was just a couple of plates that were out of spec by like 0.10 or so and that made all the difference I guess because I put a new set of friction plates in and that solved my problem.

However I'm having different symptoms on the 500. My clutch isn't slipping in high gears and at higher RPM like it was on the zx6r, it's slipping in the beginning when I launch the bike. At first I thought it was simply the clutch cable not being adjusted right, but no matter how much I played with it and re-adjusted, it was still slipping.

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across north america)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
2009 ZX6R (race bike)
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 08:10 PM
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well then seems like the obvious solution would be stiffer springs that can hold the initial pull ... but that would obviously come whit a price of more force required to pull the clutch in ... i guess if you could find something slightly stronger, it would work, but i guess you already thought about this
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 08:12 PM
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diagram and part number from cbr500r part catalogue.
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