Clutch plates thickness requirements? - Page 3 - Honda CBR500R Forum : CB500F and CB500X Forums
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by _Yamato View Post
@sbk1198 the spring doesn't have to be for this bike ... maybe some other models / brands use something similar ... but yes as you have said, i have no problems pulling a wheelie in first or from more aggressive start so, if everything is adjusted correctly and nothing "hangs" that would cause a clutch slip, only one more thing comes to my mind ... what oil do you use, is it possible it was contaminated by something? (and i know this sounds stupid, but you didn't use one of those "energy saving" oils, right? that could cause a clutch to slip as mentioned in this video about slipper clutches: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJOGKCbvMo8)
I can't say for sure but i doubt it was contaminated by anything. Throughout this year I've changed the oil 2 or 3 times and the clutch behaved the same every time. No, I didn't use any energy savings oil. I've used Motul 300V synthetic, which is what I've used in other bikes in the past as well as my zx6r.

And good call on the springs. I found some EBC spring packs online that are the same size. No idea if the spring rate is different though.


2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across north america)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
2009 ZX6R (race bike)

Last edited by sbk1198; 12-29-2016 at 01:30 PM.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 05:49 PM
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Steel plates will glaze, just take them out and rub them on a concrete floor with your feet. That's often all it is.
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 11:11 PM
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Been wondering about my clutch too, not so much for any slippage; but why it hasn't shown any I'll signs yet. Like I'm punching 35% more power through it, don't over 37K kms on it, give it the berries in the street sometimes and done a few drag racing nights... and it still hooks up good enough for 1.8s 60ft times.

What makes
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 11:38 PM
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Another thing to look for is the cable routing to see that it's not pinched or bent too sharp.

I had a Kawi Versys 650 and one of the problems that a few magazines commented on was that the clutch slipped on take off during 1/4 mile and 0-60 testing.
Also owners were having to change their frayed clutch cables at relatively low miles.

As it turned out there was nothing wrong with the clutch. What happened was that Kawasaki, in an attempt to hide the cable on the naked bike they routed the cable with a sharp bend.
All that was needed was to unhook the cable from one or two clips near the head and all was fine with the world. No more slippy.
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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Been wondering about my clutch too, not so much for any slippage; but why it hasn't shown any I'll signs yet. Like I'm punching 35% more power through it, don't over 37K kms on it, give it the berries in the street sometimes and done a few drag racing nights... and it still hooks up good enough for 1.8s 60ft times.
I bet mine would be more like 3-4 seconds for 60 ft lol. All my race starts with this bike have been **** because of this slippage issue. With any other bike I've ridden, no problem.

I put it back together now. It was worth checking. Sure didn't hurt anything and only takes about 30-40 minutes to take it all apart, measure, and put back together. Pretty simple on this bike. Maybe when it gets warmer at the start of spring I might just take the bike over to some empty parking lot nearby on a sunday and do a bunch of race start practices. I'll take some tools with me and fiddle with cable adjustment as needed.

Based on the symptoms it really just feels like being an issue of the clutch springs being too soft, but everyone else I've raced with has the same OEM springs too and no such issue. If I can't figure it out by the time our season starts, I'll have one or two of our instructors give it a try and see what they think. I probably should've done that this summer.
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2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across north america)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by tothezenith View Post
Been wondering about my clutch too, not so much for any slippage; but why it hasn't shown any I'll signs yet. Like I'm punching 35% more power through it, don't over 37K kms on it, give it the berries in the street sometimes and done a few drag racing nights... and it still hooks up good enough for 1.8s 60ft times.
Best thing to do.... take it apart and rough up the steel plates. Glaze build up on those plates.

Just place them on a concrete floor and rub them in a circular motion with your foot, works wonders. Much better grab after that little trick. Clutch plates often changed are within tolerance and it's nothing more then glaze on the steel plates.
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 09:40 AM
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But it was slipping...read the posts before.

You've never taken clutch plates apart to measure?? There's a reason why they have that info in the service manual. They do wear out in time and there are standards set for when it's time to replace them based on amount of wear. I guess for you it's better to be ignorant and pretend all is well....sure glad you're not a tech anymore!
Get lost.

MODERATOR...get rid of this clown please.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Get lost.

MODERATOR...get rid of this clown please.
You're the one that came trolling on my thread, so how about you get lost? Don't read my thread if all you're going to do is come here and insult. All I asked was for someone that has the service manual to tell me what the thickness range should be for the plates, which blipco kindly did. And you come here telling me that it's not slipping, without having any clue because you never rode my bike, and calling me stupid because I'm doing some checks that you've never done in your life apparently. Get real man...plus you've lost any credibility you had in my book in the recent helmet thread with your "expertise" on how helmets should be built

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across north america)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
2009 ZX6R (race bike)
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 12:01 PM
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I never did call you stupid, You put that on yourself. Was your name ever mention in that post. It was meant as a very generic statement. GO back and read it. Sounds to me like you have a thin skin. I have nothing against you at all. You are making it that way

If you read everything I put up I even put up the fix for your problem....but somehow you probably let that fly over your head.

I'm not a perfect person, nobody is a perfect person.

I was the only one that really gave you the best information on those steel plates glazing over, which is probably most likely what the issue is with the clutch slipping. When I was a tech that often all we ever did to clutches especially with the 750 Honda back in the day. THAT WAS ALMOST ALWAYS THE ISSUE IF THE BIKE HAD LESS THEN 50,000 MILES ON IT.

When you do track days it can be very common to glaze the steel plates. Especially with the newer full syn oils, the friction plates hold up much better, but the issue becomes the steel plates get a build up of glaze on them.

So try to be a little less thin skin, and you may even start to enjoy my humor. The problem with posting you can't see the person and that can cause a great deal of misunderstandings.

Good day sir. PEACE brother.

Last edited by sonicboom; 12-30-2016 at 12:17 PM.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 12:25 PM
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So back to trying help you guys out.

When you take the clutch apart and those friction plates look good. Just take those steel plates and rub them on the cement floor to ruff them up. Will not take much, just some fine scratches on the surface, that's how they look when new, then they go smooth and then the glaze build up which can be almost invisible, but it's on the surface of those plates.

You want a surface on that steel that looks something like honing marks on a cylinder wall. Nothing works better then a cement floor and circular motion with your foot.

After you do that, that clutch will grab strong as when new. Right now you don't have enough friction under a load.

Last edited by sonicboom; 12-30-2016 at 12:28 PM.
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